The Best High Jewellery Launches Of 2023

Gucci, Chanel, Dior, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Fendi, Mikimoto, Piaget, Pomellato, Boucheron, Buccellati and Chaumet pull out all the stops

Fendi Triptych

Designed by Fendi’s Artistic Director of Jewellery Delfina Delettrez Fendi, part of the fourth generation of the founding family, the Triptych high jewellery collection follows the unveiling of the Fendi Flavus parure the brand released during its haute couture show a full year ago.

Delfina’s debut high jewellery collection is divided into three chapters—Roma Rosa, Gioiello Giallo and Bianco Brilliante—each headlined by a different colour and recreated through gems, from yellow diamonds to orange-pink Padparascha sapphires and spinels. Subtle references to house emblems abound, from a rectangular baguette-cut stone is a nod to Fendi’s inimitable Baguette bag, to gem-set FF motifs hidden in necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings.

Cartier Le Voyage Recommencé

Cartier revisits its distinct style and design fundamentals with Le Voyage Recommencé, and the results are an arresting display of jewellery that’s unmistakably Cartier. Featuring the maison’s signature abstraction and figuration, gemstone colour pairings, world cultures, and emblems such as the panther, the 80 pieces (so far) evoke such conceptual ideas as freedom, harmony, symmetry and emotion. The collection also includes two parures—one spotlighting coral and onyx, and the other distinguished by emerald cabochons.

Van Cleef & Arpels Le Grand Tour

Van Cleef & Arpels has established its position firmly in the realm of the arts, and the French maison looked to its geographical neighbours for high jewellery inspiration this season, traversing the Continent in the style of fashionable 17th to 19th century English elites and picking up cultural and historical references along the way.

London, Paris, the Alpine region, Venice, Florence, Rome, Naples and Baden-Baden lend their influence to the 70 pieces that make up the collection, and “the result is like a colourful sketchbook that invites to dive into destinations and gemstones,” says Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels.

Mikimoto Praise to the Sea

On the 130th anniversary of its first cultured pearls, Mikimoto pays tribute to the origin of the brand with a collection that abounds with references to marine life, from whales to schools of fish and sea urchins to coral reefs. The limitless imagination of the Praise to the Sea collection is on display through its interpretation of natural forms through gems and lifelike metalsmithing.

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Piaget Metaphoria

“Experimentation, innovation and joy are part of the Maison’s DNA. From as early as the 1960s, Piaget dared to introduce coral, turquoise and lapis lazuli into watchmaking and into unique pieces of jewellery,” observes Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO.

This collection traces its origins to the 21st Century Collection that Yves Piaget unveiled in 1969, comprising elaborate jewellery watches featuring dials made of ornamental stones, and sautoirs and cuff watches of engraved gold. Metaphoria continues that dauntless exploration of beauty. The 41 pieces of jewellery and 11 watches are distinguished by two creative themes—Azureia and Beautanica—both devoted to nature, its myriad expressions, and the emotions they inspire.

Pomellato Ode to Milan

Pomellato’s new Ode to Milan high jewellery collection draws inspiration from the Italian city’s history, culture and art, and evokes its status as a design capital with the collection’s contemporary forms. Within the 33-piece collections are references to urban skyscrapers, mediaeval architecture, and landmarks such as the Duomo and La Scala, communicated through a sophisticated selection of gemstones and goldsmithing technique.

Boucheron Carte Blanche – More Is More

Known for its unconventional approach to high jewellery—hollowed-out pebbles, conch shells and preserved butterflies were highlights of its Carte Blanche – Ailleurs collection last year—Boucheron brings that same contrarian spirit to its More Is More collection.

Each creation is a jewelled trompe-l’oeil masterpiece: an exaggerated cartoon-like two-dimensional ribbon, brooches made to look like flat iron-on patches, a sapphire crystal and mother-of-pearl necklace that resembles a string of large soap bubbles, a clothing jewel to be worn as an external pocket, and a bulbous bracelet that masquerades as a hollowed-out green apple (the last a possible nod to Surrealist painter René Magritte’s The Son of Man.) When jewellers say their pieces are meant to inspire play, Boucheron means that literally.

Buccellati Mosaico

Buccellati presents more than 50 pieces that collectively pay homage to the ornate intricacy of Byzantine-era mosaics, and the shapes and colours of the glass paste tesserae. Through fabric-like bracelets, bib necklaces, cocktail rings and drop earrings, the maison interprets these patterns through its signature goldsmithing techniques, creating fine honeycomb filigree and near-microscopic textures, accented with opulent gems.

Gucci Allegoria

Inspired by nature and its myriad transformations from one season to the next, the Gucci Allegoria high jewellery collection communicates the ephemerality of beauty and its innately emotional qualities through jewellery divided into four themes, each channeling a particular season through its selection of gemstones and motifs.

A chromatic degradé of fancy-coloured tourmalines of green and pink set off against the maison’s Flora motif convey the subtle joy of spring; saturated emeralds, spinels and paraiba tourmalines mirror the intensity of summer; yellow sapphires and mandarin garnets, complemented by yellow gold, bring out the fiery hues of autumn; and opal and diamonds recall the icy landscape in winter.

A particular feature of the collection is the uncommon or antique gemstone cuts, from old European-cut diamonds to briolettes, from kite- to fan-shaped gems, as well as the ornate Baroque, Rococo and Victorian jewellery style seen in previous high jewellery collections from Gucci.

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Chanel Tweed de Chanel

A new instalment to the 45-piece high jewellery collection unveiled in 2020, this range continues its interpretation of the fabric made in Scotland that Coco Chanel came into contact with in the 1920s. From a rugged cloth for outdoor life, she turned it into a signature of her brand’s elegant womenswear, and its woven texture became the basis of the new 63-piece series of what Patrice Leguéreau, Director of the Chanel Fine Jewellery Creation Studio, describes as “tweed set with precious stones.”

Divided into five chapters, each underpinned by a new tweed jewellery weave, the jewellery feature motifs of the maison—the white ribbon, pink camellia, comet, yellow sun, and lion—interpreted through gold and platinum threads, gemstones, pearls, and extraordinary openwork.

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Dior Les Jardins de la Couture

For Les Jardins de la Couture collection, Artistic Director of Dior Joaillerie Victoire de Castellane introduces 170 creations, including three secret watches, that pay tribute to the abundance and splendour of nature, interpreted through the lens of fashion through the clever interplay of scale and perspective.

Gardens have been an enduring source of inspiration for the maison across its metiers, and for Les Jardins de la Couture, they manifest as flowers recreated with gems, a kaleidoscopic palette, and bucolic motifs that simultaneously evoke graceful ribbons. Featuring finely detailed and delicate miniature scenography, the collection combines gems, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, gold and sequins, as well as the lacquer technique, a favorite of de Castellane’s, to take one on a journey through four stories: Galons Fleuris, or floral braids; Très Cher Dior; Buissons Couture, or sewing bushes; and Mini Milly.

Chaumet Le Jardin de Chaumet

A perennial favourite among jewellery maisons, flora inspired Chaumet too, and the brand paid its homage to nature with an astounding 68-piece collection. Divided into four chapters—Wood & Undergrowth, Fields, Flowers and Bouquets of the World—the pieces range from tiaras in the shape of woven stalks of wheat to necklaces depicting vines and leaves, incorporating a delicately balanced palette of gems such as spinels, spessartite garnets and Padparadscha sapphires.

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