Started by rock chicks in the 1950s, adopted by the Tumblr girls in the early noughts and revived by the Gen Z crowd in recent years, this season’s emo eyeliner look works across all eye shapes, but prep work is of utmost importance, according to makeup artist Sha Shamsi.
“I recommended applying an eye primer or a mattifying liquid foundation, then setting it with powder before drawing the desired shape over [and under] the upper and lower lids using a waterproof pencil,” she says. “Next, trace over using a waterproof liquid liner.
in Black, $31
Anastasia Beverly Hills Waterproof
Crème Color for Eyes
in Jet, $35
The Intense Color
Eye Pencil in 01 Black
Beauty Crayon Eyeliner
Waterproof in 094
Trinidad Black, $38
If the prep work is perfect, even those with oily lids won’t face smudging.
The healthy flush one gets from a good workout was all the rage at the spring/summer 2023 shows. Makeup artist Larry Yeo’s trick to achieving it?
Use universally appealing hues such as mauve, berry and golden pink. “It’s also about taking time to work products into the skin and getting that sheen,” he adds.
Gucci Beauty Blush De Beauté in 05 Rosy Beige, $95
Bobbi Brown Brightening Blush in Blushed Coral, $61
Patrick Ta Major Headlines – Double-Take Creme & Powder Blush Duo in Do We Know Her?, $58
KVD Beauty ModCon Liquid-Gel Blush in Glasscade, $45
Fenty Beauty Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush in Cool Berry, $38
As for how best to apply the product, Yeo recommends using the index and middle fingers to dab it onto the apples of the cheeks before blending it downwards for a softer and more natural finish.
Whether one prefers a nude look with some dimensional finish or a bold colour with bite, the season’s smudged lip requires no finessing to pull off (it is meant to look natch, like it has been done in the dark or on board a moving vehicle).
According to makeup artist Kenneth Chia though, the best way to wear this trend is to go for a more intense look. “Start with matte formulas, [and tap] darker shades on the lip corners and lighter ones in the middle, or vice versa,” he suggests.
Shiseido TechnoSatin Gel Lipstick in 405 Playback, $48
YSL Beauty Rouge Pur Couture The Slim in 27 Conflicting Crimson, $59
Perfectionists can prep their lips with a liner for more longevity, but “the charm and modernity of a smudged lip are in its imperfection”, he says. “That’s what I find really sexy about this trend.”
The beauty of the style is that anyone can try it, regardless of hair length, texture and volume. Christvian Wu of ARX recommends taking a good look in the mirror first to decide which way one’s hair should go—”Check which side of the face is more lifted and then part hair off to the opposite side,” he says.
On how to achieve a clean split, he suggests: “For people with oily hair, use a dry shampoo before styling. If you have dry hair, apply a leave-in treatment from the roots down to the ends. A wet product such as a gel will make curly hair easier to work with.”
Living Proof Style Lab Flex Hairspray Styling & Finishing Spray, $43
Leonor Greyl Éclat Naturel, $72
Kérastase Chronologiste Youth Revitalizing Parfum Hair Oil, $92
Briogeo Be Gentle, Be Kind Aloe + Oat Milk Ultra Soothing Detangling Spray, $44
His tips for softening the severity of the look? Add volume on the side if you have a long and angular face; for those with a rounder shape, add volume on the top to lengthen the face.