Watches & Wonders 2025: Highlights from Rolex, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chanel, VCA, Piaget, and More

From shimmering gem-set showpieces to feats of mechanical wizardry, this year’s Watches & Wonders proved that the world’s top maisons are still masters of surprise
Photo: Rolex

Geneva is buzzing once again as the biggest names in watchmaking gather for Watches & Wonders. It’s where tradition meets bold innovation, and where technical brilliance gets dressed up in jaw-dropping artistry. From boundary-pushing mechanics to dazzling high jewellery timepieces, this year’s showcase reminds us why haute horlogerie still has the power to surprise and seduce.

Here are the standout releases we can’t stop thinking about:

Rolex

Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 36 mm (Photo: Rolex)
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II (Photo: Rolex)

Rolex definitely made headlines this year with a rare move: the debut of an all-new model, the Land-Dweller—its first new line since 2012’s Sky-Dweller, and its first new sport model in over a decade.

This integrated-bracelet creation unveils Rolex’s first high-frequency movement, the Calibre 7135, featuring the new Dynapulse escapement for enhanced accuracy. Offered in 36mm and 40mm sizes, it comes in white Rolesor, Everose gold, and 950 platinum with an ice-blue honeycomb dial. A refined Flat Jubilee bracelet integrates seamlessly into its sculptural case.

Aside from the Land-Dweller, the GMT-Master II returns in its boldest ceramic guise yet, with a luminous green ceramic dial and bezel insert. Crafted in 18 ct white gold, it also features a left-side crown—for lefties or style rebels.

Oyster Perpetual 28 mm with a lavender dial (Photo: Rolex)
Perpetual 1908 (Photo: Rolex)

Pastel hues—lavender, pistachio, sandy beige—revive the Oyster Perpetual, while the 1908 gets a yellow gold refresh, underscoring Rolex’s quiet evolution.

Bvlgari

Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon (Photo: Bvlgari)
Serpenti Aeterna (Photo: Bvlgari)

Celebrating 25 years of boundary-pushing watchmaking, Bvlgari makes a bold entrance at Watches & Wonders 2025 with two radically distinct statements: the razor-thin Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the sculptural Serpenti Aeterna.

The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a marvel of modern micro-engineering—just 1.85mm thick, encased in microbead-frosted titanium, and powered by the manual-wind BVF 900 calibre. Anchored by a tungsten carbide main plate and operated by dual planar crowns, it’s a razor-thin ode to architectural defiance, down to its barely-there 1.5mm titanium bracelet.

In contrast, the Serpenti Aeterna leans into sensual minimalism. Shedding the snake’s traditional scales and eyes, this new interpretation coils like a golden whisper—engraved with Bvlgari’s signature hexagonal motif and lit with diamonds. An invisible mechanism powers its quiet seduction.

Cartier

The Tank Louis Cartier (Photo: Cartier)
The 2025 Tank à Guichets (Photo: Cartier)

Few maisons master the art of silhouette like Cartier. For 2025, the house revisits icons with contemporary poise while unleashing high jewellery creations that dazzle with feral grace.

The Tank Louis Cartier—a 1922 classic—receives a refreshed case size and the in-house 1899 MC automatic movement, available in rose or yellow gold. Its softened lines breathe new life into a timeless legend.

The Cartier Privé series revives the 1928 Tank à Guichets, updated with calibre 9755 MC. Jumping hours, dragging minutes, and a left-field 12 o’clock crown are wrapped in polished and satin contrasts. One standout: a 200-piece edition with oblique apertures that amplify its Art Deco roots.

Tressage (Photo: Cartier)
Panthère Jewellery Watch (Photo: Cartier)

On the high jewellery front, Tressage twists gold and stones into woven, architectural forms, while the Panthère Jewellery Watch is a jewellery timepiece marvel that prowls with lacquered fur and tsavorite eyes. The abstract Panthère de Cartier dial—striped in lacquer, framed in diamonds—casts the emblematic feline in a modernist light.

Chanel

Chanel turns up the chroma, playing with contrasts, colour, and couture codes.

Chanel J12 Bleu 28mm Sapphires (Photo: Chanel)
Chanel J12 Bleu X-RAY(Photo: Chanel)

To mark its 25th anniversary, Chanel’s iconic J12 returns in a striking matte blue makeover. Crafted from high-resistance Bleu ceramic, the anniversary collection showcases the maison’s enduring pursuit of material innovation. Nine limited-edition models—ranging from 28 mm to 42 mm—make up the lineup, with most powered by automatic movements. Notable exceptions include the dainty 28 mm J12 Bleu with a high-precision quartz movement, and two manually wound standouts: the radiant J12 Diamond Bleu Tourbillon and the ultra-modern J12 Bleu X-RAY.

Chanel Premiere Charms Blush (Photo: Chanel)
Chanel Boy·Friend Blush (Photo: Chanel)
Chanel J12 Blush Caliber 12.2 33 mm (Photo: Chanel)
Chanel Premiere Galon (Photo: Chanel)

The Blush Watch Capsule Collection, a vibrant homage to Chanel Beauty, infuses lively pops of colour against sleek black finishes. Drawing inspiration from the bold palette curated by the house’s Makeup Creative Studio, the collection brings fresh energy to the J12 and Boy.Friend models. The J12 is embellished with subtle hints of pink and red, while the Boy.Friend watches playfully reimagine Gabrielle Chanel through a pop-art lens.

Meanwhile, the Première Galon features a twisted bangle bracelet nodding to the braid that edges Chanel jackets. For Gabrielle Chanel’s fellow Leos, the Lion collection roars with sculptural timepieces in gold, gemstones, and mother-of-pearl—astrological elegance in full power mode.

Piaget

Piaget Sixtie Watch (Photo: Piaget)
Piaget Andy Warhol with tiger’s eye dial (Photo: Piaget)

Piaget plunges into its archives, resurrecting vintage magic with modern flair.

The new Sixtie—a trapezoidal watch inspired by the radicalism of the ’60s and ’70s—channels the maison’s most audacious design era. Softly geometric and confidently feminine, it radiates retro-cool allure.

Once known as the 15102 and favoured by Andy Warhol himself, the Andy Warhol Watch is reborn in bold iterations—from a lightning-blue opal dial surrounded by sapphires to a warm tiger’s eye version. With 10 stone dial options, various hands, and strap choices, it’s endlessly customisable and joyously irreverent.

Other novelties include the Rainbow Aura, a revamped Piaget Polo 79 in white gold, and kinetic Swinging Sautoir watches—which was also spotted on Korean actress Jun Ji-hyun when she made an appearance at the Piaget booth during the fair)—are each a nod to Piaget’s playful, high-art spirit.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Ever the dreamweaver, Van Cleef & Arpels continues to spin mechanical fairy tales.

Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)
Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux Aube (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)

The Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate now whirls through a guinguette backdrop—19th-century Parisian open-air dance halls—with its couple meeting for a kiss at noon and midnight (or on demand with a press of a button).

The beloved Pont des Amoureux expands with four new versions—dawn, morning, dusk, and moonlight—each painted with delicate tonal shifts and paired with a matching bracelet.

Ruban Mystérieux (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)
Cadenas (Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels)

In terms of the high jewellery watches, Ruban Mystérieux mimics a ribbon elegantly tied around the wrist, concealing a petite manual movement. The new Cadenas reinterprets the surrealist padlock watch with snow-set diamonds and a sapphire flourish.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The maison of precision strikes again—literally—with Reverso tributes that merge complication and craft.

Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)

The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, limited to 30 pieces, houses the new Calibre 953 and features dual faces: guilloché barley grain under teal-blue enamel on the front, a skeletonised acoustic marvel on the reverse. Every element—crystal gongs to lacquered bridges—chimes with sonic sophistication.

Reverso Tribute Geographic (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Reverso Tribute Geographic (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)

The Reverso Tribute Geographic—the first world-time function in the Tribute series—displays dual time zones via an engraved city ring and rotating disc. Available in steel or limited-edition pink gold, it nods to the 1958 Memovox World Time.

Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)

The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ features four miniature masterpieces inspired by Persian miniatures and Shah Tahmasp’s 16th-century manuscript, executed in grand feu enamel and paillonnage by the Métiers Rares atelier.

Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Green Arums (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)
Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Purple Arums (Photo: Jaeger-LeCoultre)

Two pink gold Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’—Green Arums and Purple Arums—radiate floral femininity, while the Reverso One ‘Precious Colours’ transforms its case into a full enamelled Art Deco canvas, demanding up to 15 firings and years of enamel artistry.

A. Lange & Söhne

German virtuosity remains alive and well at A. Lange & Söhne, who present three novelties that balance gravitas and grace.

Minute Repeater Perpetual (Photo: A. Lange & Söhne)
Odysseus in 750 Honey Gold (Photo: A. Lange & Söhne)

The Minute Repeater Perpetual leads the charge, combining two of horology’s most revered complications. Powered by a new manually wound movement, it harmonises the lyrical chimes of a repeater with the astronomical logic of a perpetual calendar.

1815 (Photo: A. Lange & Söhne)
1815 (Photo: A. Lange & Söhne)

The new 1815 channels classical codes with contemporary spirit, while the Odysseus returns in a luxurious new iteration—crafted in proprietary 750 Honey Gold (HONEYGOLD®), shimmering with warmth and depth.

Tag Heuer

Tag Heuer makes a turbocharged appearance at Geneva to mark their return as official timekeeper of Formula 1, bringing adrenaline, innovation, and nostalgia.

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph (Photo: Tag Heuer)
Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph (Photo: Tag Heuer)

The Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph injects new energy into the iconic collection, powered by a solar-charged movement and built with TH-Polylight for maximum durability. Its re-engineered 38mm case and bidirectional bezel are ready for race and street alike.

(Photo: Tag Heuer)
(Photo: Tag Heuer)

The Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Date Twin-Time return with elevated precision, each powered by the in-house TH31 movement with 80-hour power reserve and quick-change bracelets. The Carrera Day-Date comes in five confident new references, while the Twin-Time brings jet-set charisma with a bold teal dial.

(Photo: Tag Heuer)
(Photo: Tag Heuer)

In a nostalgic flourish, the Beads-of-Rice bracelet is revived for the modern Carrera Chronograph, with sleek finishing and refined articulation. Tag Heuer’s global Designed to Win campaign, inspired by Ayrton Senna’s immortal words, captures the brand’s relentless drive.

Laurent Ferrier

(Photo: Laurent Ferrier)
(Photo: Laurent Ferrier)

Laurent Ferrier is adding the Classic Auto to its permanent collection — and it’s arriving in icy blue. First introduced as a limited Série Atelier for Geneva Watch Days 2024, the new Classic Auto Horizon trades the Sandstone’s copper dial for a lacquered sky-blue gradient, inspired by open skies and shifting light.

Its name nods to the LF 270.01 caliber, a micro-rotor movement originally seen in the Sport Auto. Now housed in a 40mm Galet-shaped stainless steel case, the Classic Auto bridges Ferrier’s sportier edge with his signature vintage refinement. The softly contoured case draws from 19th-century pocket watches, made modern.

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