Following up on the highly successful men-focused H08, whose chronograph made a splash last year with its monopusher concept and rubber strap range in fun colours, Hermes Horloger now unveils the Hermes Cut collection. The first manufacture line aimed primarily at women but with a universal style, according to Hermes Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet, the watch sits elegantly at 36mm and spans varying combinations of stainless steel, rose gold, diamond-set bezel, bracelets, and interchangeable rubber straps in various colours.
It all started with a rethinking of what shapes mean, distilling them into their purest forms while challenging existing expectations of the silhouettes that watch cases come in—after all, “reflecting on shape means looking at the act of creation itself,” said Hermès’ artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas in 2015. Somewhere between a circle and a cushion, with features of both, and also with curved facets sliced into either side, the Hermes Cut alternates between mirror-polished surfaces and satin-brushed ones to create an intriguing interplay of focused and diffused reflected light.
The time-only watch’s crown is tucked into the case and neatly recessed between 1 and 2 o’clock, keeping it from stabbing into wrists if it were placed exactly at 3 o’clock. Gently sloped lugs offer a more snug fit especially on slimmer wrists, and the catch in the interchangeable strap system releases in a cinch. The opaline dial bears applique numerals in Hermes font, and a lollipop second hand glides past them, circumscribed by a steel minute track. Under the dial sits the movement H1912, with 50 hours of power reserve, which also runs other Hermes timepieces, such as Cape Cod.
Joining Hermes’ women’s timepiece stable—currently populated by the stately Arceau, Galop d’Hermes, Nantucket, and Heure H lines—the Hermes Cut introduces a sportier energy (with a rainbow’s worth of interchangeable rubber straps) while offering the option to dress it up with diamond-set bezels.