In the hallowed rankings of the 50 top Swiss watch brands, there is one apparent outlier: Not a watchmaker by origin, but a luxury brand that has consistently impressed collectors with its horological ambitions. The brand, unsurprisingly, is Hermès.
Over the past three years, Hermès has steadily marked an upward trajectory in the Morgan Stanley and Luxe Consult report of top Swiss watch brands, starting at 19, to now number 16.
It’s telling of the maison’s steady horological growth, marked by its inherent desire to never play by the books. It was never interested in making watches for the sake of making watches: Its timepieces form an integral part of the maison’s universe and are characterised by the same playful and artistic disposition as the rest of its wares. Over the years, its Arceau, H08 and Cape Cod collections have garnered the approval of watch connoisseurs, who recognise Hermès’s creative vision in making timepieces that transform traditional design codes into whimsical works of art.
Hermès’s watchmaking ambitions have their roots in 1978, when it set up a manufacture in Bienne, Switzerland. In 2003, it redirected its focus from creating purely fashion watches to bona fide mechanical timepieces. It strategically invested in movement makers and focused on growing its in-house talent.
Following a legacy of award-winning timepieces, Hermès unveils the Cut as the latest addition to its collection. Launched during the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva, it garnered significant admiration from attendees.
The Cut marks a significant milestone for Hermès as its first sports watch collection designed with women in mind. However, as Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director of Hermès Horloger, clarifies, the watch’s appeal extends beyond gender boundaries. “It’s not strictly speaking a women’s watch per se, but rather a new line aimed primarily at women, with a universal style that men can also adopt.”
This approach reflects Hermès’s commitment to creating timepieces that resonate with a diverse audience. Delhotal emphasises the brand’s desire to blend its distinctive style with its watchmaking expertise: “It interprets the Hermès vocabulary of shapes and features a multitude of sharp angles that forge its unique personality. Playing on circles and roundness, the new Hermès Cut is a celebration of simplicity and above all of selfevident and timeless shapes.”
The brand describes the case as a “circle within a round shape”. The elevated inner bezel adds depth and dimension, and the visual spectacle is further enhanced by the interplay of sun-brushed and polished finishes. This effect is particularly striking in the dual-tone version, where the stainless-steel bezel contrasts beautifully with the warmth of the diamond-studded, rose-gold inner bezel.
Further enhancing the design, it’s the granular attention to detail that amplifies the visual impact of the Cut. In order not to disrupt the clean lines, the crown has been placed between 1 and 2 o’clock. The Arabic numerals are slightly slanted, again playing on the concepts of shape and geometry. The hands, too, are quirky, featuring partially open-worked hour and minute hands, as well as a second hand with an orange tip. Delhotal asserts, “This is a watch that we wanted to be deliberately di!erent, endowed with an assertive style and an unconventional shape.”
The design ethos of the watch is echoed in its name, says Delhotal. “Shapes look very simple, yet upon closer inspection one realises there is no such thing as a ‘simple shape’. There is a kind of simple, ambiguous complexity, and that’s where the oxymoron becomes interesting.”
Available in four iterations, including steel and dual-tone versions (both with diamond options), the Cut offers versatility through its easily interchangeable bracelets. Delhotal highlights this adaptability, stating, “Hermès Cut unveils an all-new identity … adapting to changing moods through a wide choice of strap colours.” He concludes, “We designed this watch to be simple and unique, while retaining a true aesthetic dimension.”
PHOTOGRAPHY JAYA KHIDIR
ART DIRECTION MARISA XIN
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS ALLY ALAM AND NOWO KASTURI
This story first appeared in the October issue of GRAZIA Singapore.
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