Upon the advent of watches in the 16th century, the innovation of everyday timekeeping was a habit kept from women. Though keeping track of the hours and minutes that made up the day has long been an evolutionary instinct, to actually measure these moments was exclusively reserved for men. Even once watches became available to women two centuries later, pieces were designed with the utmost discretion, often disguising dials. When the working boom of the 1980s saw women’s watches become more commonplace, our horological standards had evolved—women needed more than just what everyone else had.
First launched in 1987, Chanel’s Première collection embodied this dynamic demand for watches that went beyond the functionality of its contemporaries. A revolutionary design that married the worlds of horology and high jewellery, the release marked a significant shift from utilitarian timekeeping to a new language of wristwear, one that boldly embraced a timeless approach. When the maison ventured into watchmaking, then-artistic director Jacques Helleu wasn’t interested in creating just another timepiece.
The Parisian luxury house had already revolutionised women’s fashion. And so, rather than following the trend of adapting men’s designs, Helleu decided to craft a watch exclusively for women, embracing their distinct needs and style from the start.
Over 30 years later, the Première remains an iconic and coveted design. In 2022, Chanel reissued the watch as the Première Édition Originale, maintaining its classic aesthetic while improving durability. It continues to embody the essence of the original: an elegant, time-telling companion for the fashionforward woman.
The octagonal dial draws inspiration from Parisian landmarks central to Chanel’s identity, echoing the architectural grandeur of Place Vendôme and the stopper of the iconic Chanel N°5 perfume bottle. The watch’s clean, minimalist face and elegant bracelet— interwoven with black leather and gold like the maison’s iconic handbag chains—seamlessly blend tradition with modernity, offering more than just a timepiece; it’s an heirloom of style. The watch’s refined details underscore its timeless appeal. The emerald-cut bevelled crystal rests on a black-lacquer dial free of numerals, with golden hands gracefully gliding over its smooth surface.
At its core, the Première is about more than just telling time; it’s a statement of personality and panache. The crown, adorned with an onyx cabochon, reflects two of the maison’s signature colours: gold, for Gabrielle Chanel’s love of all that glitters, and intense black, which distills the essential. The collection’s Ribbon and Gourmette Chain iterations express dualities. The Ribbon’s smooth band wraps effortlessly around the wrist, while the robust metal chain of the Gourmette exudes strength.
In redefining how women could engage with watches in a world where timepieces had long been seen as functional objects, Chanel’s Première envisioned them as part of a woman’s complete wardrobe—accessories that served as extensions of her personality and style.
Today, the Première Édition Originale continues to offer its versatility, bringing the fluid elegance of Chanel couture to the everyday, with the House expanding on the Première universe with the addition of limited-edition pieces like the Première Cuff and the Sautoir-Belt in 2024. With the accessories that make up Première, Chanel provides more than just a watch, but a canvas for endless reinvention that emboldens its wearer.
With the same thoughtful approach to design and a regard for the dynamic needs of women that have seen the House endure throughout its century in business, Chanel continues its legacy of eschewing the rules in lieu of something a little more exciting.
ADDITIONAL REPORTING CHERYL LAI-LIM
PHOTOGRAPHY NOWO KASTURI
ART DIRECTION MARISA XIN
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT TAWFIQ ISMAIL
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