Jewellery and watches may be serious business, but that doesn’t mean they have to be solemn. Case in point: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Perlée collection. Since its debut in 2008, the range distinguished by the motif of golden beads has cemented its position as a spirited series celebrating the joyfulness and energy that shapes, materials and style can evoke.
A goldsmithing technique that appeared in Van Cleef & Arpels as early as the 1920s, golden beads went from outlining and accentuating gemstones, and elevating the preciousness of historical creations such as the Twist ring and Bagatelle bangle, to headlining an entire collection in their own right. Just as symmetry and round shapes inspire feelings of safety, contentment and harmony, the Perlée collection’s golden beads, rendered in precious metals like yellow gold and rose gold, emanate warmth, delight and liveliness.
Recent novelties within the Perlée collection give new dimension to the playful concept. The addition of ornamental stone—such as lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, onyx and coral—and precious gems—sapphires, rubies and emeralds—inject a cheery dose of colour and lend a decidedly 1960s quintessence of irreverence and optimism. Complemented by the shine and spherical perfection of the golden beads, the gemstones and their bold tones make a sunny statement.
Continually evolving, the Perlée collection reimagines form and composition, often by revisiting archival designs. Its Perlée Couleurs rings recall the style of the maison’s Philippine rings from 1968, with the generous proportions of the selected ornamental stone accentuated by golden beads and round diamonds. The five-row Perlée Diamonds rings employ a gemsetting technique new to Van Cleef & Arpels, with polished gold nails positioned between the stones holding them in place on an airy hexagonal openwork structure.
Even watches get their share of fun. New to the Perlée collection are timepieces that are circumscribed by golden beads and fitted with grosgrain straps or precious bracelets, cleverly concealed under swivelling cabochons in toi-et-moi cuffs, or even worn as a sautoir set with rose quartz, chalcedony or sodalite, all showcasing the movement and liberty that the Perlée collection is renowned for.