On paper, the words “square ring” are an oxymoron; in the mind of Hong Kong jeweller Dickson Yewn, however, a square ring is a form that opens up a whole new world of design possibilities. It has also become Yewn’s calling card, especially after the former US first lady Michelle Obama wore one of his designs during a visit with Queen Elizabeth II in 2011.
Obama chose a striking jadeite square ring from Yewn’s Chinese Lattice collection, which features intricate latticework inspired by the windows of traditional Chinese architecture. That’s just one example of the wonders that Yewn can do with his signature square ring. For his follow-up Floral Lattice collection, this time inspired by the traditional Chinese garden, Yewn adorned his square rings with flora and fauna—think diamond-encrusted frogs and jadeite lily pads, or a pair of mating horned beetles meticulously carved out of gold.
For his Cloisonné collection, the jeweller looked to the ancient technique of adorning metalwork with colourful enamel—a technique that, in China, was once reserved for objects belonging to royalty. Yewn reinterpreted the technique by trading enamel for colourful gemstones, embellishing his square rings and square bangles with a vivid rainbow of diamonds, tsavorites, and sapphires in pink, yellow and blue.
Yewn’s Literati collection, which marks his eponymous brand’s 25th anniversary, reinterprets the paintings of influential Chinese scholar-officials in stunning, three-dimensional form using time-honoured sculpting and goldsmithing techniques. Yewn’s artistic jewels make use of unexpected materials: on the Hibiscus By The Water square ring, an homage to the painter Tang Yin, the titular flower stretches out across a base of white jade, while the Day Lily ring, which incorporates a motif of Bada Shanren’s ink paintings, is carved from rutilated rock crystal. Yewn also uses different types of wood in his jewellery designs. That can be seen in the Vanda Miss Joaquim square ring—a spectacular tribute to Singapore’s national flower—which features a blackwood band.
As unique as each piece is, one thing that ties Yewn’s creations together is their exquisite craftsmanship.
“I would say jewellery art is one of the most difficult art mediums [to master],” says the jeweller. “That’s why there are so few people who manage to use it to express their artistic vision.”
Below, he tells us more about his artistic vision.
On Jewellery As Art
“Jewellery is a combination of at least nine different disciplines,” says Yewn, who previously trained and worked in fine arts and film, about his chosen craft. “Each discipline takes about three years to master, if you’re talented. If you’re not talented, maybe it will take your whole lifetime.”
“What drew me to jewellery is the challenge of creating it,” he emphasises. “It’s quite rare for artists to use jewellery as a medium of expression.”
On Offering An Asian Perspective
“I’m not pushing boundaries; I’m actually bringing a whole new dimension to jewellery,” says Yewn when asked about his aim as a jeweller. “The problem with different disciplines of art—from fine art to applied art—is that they are all monopolised by Western aesthetics and thought. How art is categorised or defined is through the Western way. I’m bringing in more of an Asian perspective.”
On Preserving History Through Jewellery
“You can say that I’m a historian by heart,” says Yewn, who has also published an art book this year that dives into Han Chinese culture and its influence on his designs. The erudite jeweller says he will publish a second volume showcasing his works that are inspired by “daily lives, religions and philosophies.”
“I like to take the challenge of using jewellery art as my ‘pen’ to document the material and non-material culture of China,” reflects Yewn. “In order to create something contemporary, you have to know the past. You cannot build something out of nothing.”
On Using Rare, Unconventional Materials
Going beyond gold, silver, and popular gemstones, Yewn also opts for striking materials that are closely connected to Chinese culture, like jade and wood. “Those materials are another dimension that I’m bringing into the jewellery world,” shares Yewn, who has used over 80 different species of wood in his designs. “Besides wood, I also use porcelain and carbon fibre in my designs. I also use different techniques from China’s intangible cultural heritage, like gold-inlaid jade and inlaid wood carving.”
On The Beauty Of A Square Ring
“The two most basic shapes in the world are the square and the circle,” says Yewn. “The square represents a lot of things, including positivity. A square ring gives immense freedom to its wearer. It only touches four spots of your finger; it also leaves four corners for you ‘to breathe’.” The jeweller also explains how his signature design serves as the ideal canvas for his creativity: “There is more surface area to work with on a square ring.”
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