Fred Samuel, the visionary founder of the jewellery maison Fred, was born in Argentina to French parents. He often described his childhood in the South American country as “full of happiness.”
At just 16, he moved to France, where he honed his craft as a jeweller before establishing his own business at the age of 28. Years later, when he discovered the South of France, he felt an instant connection, describing it as the place where “the beauty of light and colour was returned to me,” a reference to the brilliance of his Argentinian childhood. He fell in love with the South of France because its light and colours evoked the same joy and vibrancy of his early years.
It’s safe to say that maison Fred wouldn’t be what it is today without the founder’s Argentinian roots. That unique Latin American spirit—the warmth, the joy, the zest for life—left an indelible mark on Monsieur Fred, which he brought with him to Paris.
To honour this lesser-known chapter of his life, Valérie Samuel, the founder’s granddaughter and current artistic director and vice president of Fred, has created the Monsieur Fred Ideal Light high jewellery collection. “Maison Fred is all about carrying forward the founder [and my grandfather], Fred Samuel’s vision and personality as the ‘Sunshine Jeweller,’” she says. “This collection is especially meaningful because it pays tribute to a lesser-known part of our history—Fred Samuel’s childhood in Argentina.”
Here, Samuel opens up about the deeply personal meaning behind the collection, its four distinct sets, and how Maison Fred continues to redefine high jewellery for the modern world.
GRAZIA Singapore (GS): How did your personal connection to your grandfather’s heritage influence the design choices and the emotional weight of this collection?
Valérie Samuel (VS): The Monsieur Fred Ideal Light collection is truly about celebrating the origins of Monsieur Fred’s passion for light and colour, which are deeply rooted in his joyful childhood in Argentina. This is what we aim to honour and convey through this collection.
We would not be who we are today without him being born in Argentina. That unique Latin American spirit and way of living left a mark on him, which he brought with him to Paris. This collection is a tribute to that heritage. It’s a reflection of what makes Monsieur Fred, and by extension, Maison Fred, so unique. The Monsieur Fred Ideal Light collection is a celebration of his life, and I felt it was important to honour this lesser-known chapter of his story. It’s an invitation to step into that joyful time, exploring Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata, the places that shaped him.
GS: With four distinct sets, how do you ensure the entire collection works cohesively?
VS: For me, creation is about storytelling and emotion. Once I had the idea, it became clear how the pieces would come together. This collection, Monsieur Fred Ideal Light, is divided into four chapters, each inspired by a different aspect of Fred Samuel’s Argentina.
The first set, Blazing Audacity, is inspired by the vibrant, colourful architecture of the La Boca district, where tango was born. The designs include intricate details like arches and structural elements. The cocktail ring in this collection, for example, is inspired by the district’s facades. There’s also the Toi et Moi ring, crafted to evoke the movement of two dancers. Versatility is key here— pieces can transform, such as the long necklace, which can become a detachable bracelet.
The second set, Exalting Joy, is about the Montserrat district, which holds an annual carnival. I was inspired by woven fabric and those wavy bracelets that you get as a lucky charm for this [threepiece] set. The challenge I gave our craftsmen was to reproduce the texture of woven textiles. Through the innovative use of doublets, we layered turquoise and white opal to create a unique stone we call “Opalazur.” Again, the pieces are versatile—the ring, for example, can be worn as three separate pieces.
Next, for the third set, Bright Vitality, it’s based on Palermo’s botanical garden. It’s a botanical garden, similar to the one you have here at Gardens by the Bay. This set channels the botanical beauty of Palermo Gardens. The necklace, for example, was inspired by palm trees and features precious Muzo emeralds from Colombia. In this necklace, you also find the design language of Fred because it showcases the contrast between organic and graphic elements, with baguette stones on one side and round brilliants on the other. The cocktail ring is inspired by the organic shape of palm tree leaves and was influenced by archives from the ’50s. I like the movement in this design —it’s really evocative of leaves.
Our last set, Endless Horizon, is inspired by the coastal city of Mar del Plata. Drawing from Fred Samuel’s love for the ocean, this set captures the freedom of the ocean. The long lasso necklace pays tribute to our signature cable motif, but with a new interpretation: a braided white gold rope on one side and a spiralled combination of lapis lazuli and diamonds on the other. The adjustable ring in the middle features a stunning 10-carat Ceylon sapphire, which can be removed to split the cables into two separate necklaces. Versatility shines here again, with pieces that transform into multiple styles, offering wearers incredible freedom.
GS: The versatility is remarkable! Do you have a personal favourite?
VS: That’s like choosing between children! If I had to pick, I’d say Exalting Joy from the Montserrat chapter because of its craftsmanship and the unique Opalazur stone. I’m also drawn to Blazing Audacity from La Boca for its vibrant colours, which reflect my grandfather’s love of light.
GS: Have you visited these places yourself?
VS: Not yet! I’ve visited other South American countries like Brazil and Mexico, but I want to dedicate proper time to Argentina. However, I’ve relied on my grandfather’s photos, testimonies, and even Google Earth. I guess we can say I have digitally visited these places! This collection blends dream and reality, so it’s more about imagining his childhood than strictly recreating it.
GS: High jewellery is often seen as a reflection of time and heritage, but also as an art form that can challenge conventions. How does Monsieur Fred Ideal Light push the boundaries of traditional high jewellery design?
VS: High jewellery allows us to push limits, both in craftsmanship and creative audacity. Adaptability has always been part of our DNA, dating back to Fred Samuel’s vision in 1936. He signed his business cards as the “modern jewellery designer,” and I think those three words are very important for us. His vision was to offer jewellery for men and women that could be worn every day—for every moment, whether small or monumental. That spirit of practicality and innovation continues to guide us as we explore new ways to make high jewellery more dynamic and accessible.
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