Triumphant Textures: Alaïa’s Summer/Fall 2024 Collection Is One For The Books

"This collection is about simplicity and purity, about less meaning more"

Paris Couture Week this year launched itself to exponential levels upon kickstarting a yearly affair that celebrates fine tailoring and artistry. A sweet union that many flock to the fashion capital to see for themselves.

Amidst the bustle of Couture Week, Maison Alaïa took to the runway to showcase its Summer/Fall 2024 ready-to-wear collection that featured an array of sartorial silhouettes.

The teaser for the show starts with the camera panning to the set design that features a minimal yet futuristic décor, with mirrored glass floor panels and a large disk of light fixture hanging from the ceiling. But, not to be fooled, this collection was anything but minimal. Since being appointed as the creative director for the house, Pieter Mulier has made it a point to carry on the late Azzedine Alaïa’s legacy while also featuring aspects of his own vision.

Prior to the show, Mulier took the time to address the attendees and give them a glimpse of what is to come, “I wanted to write a few words ahead of our Summer/Fall show, to explain what you will see and why we’re here together. This collection is about simplicity and purity, about less meaning more – about intimacy, about reducing to an essence, about finding a freedom and invention in that. It is a decision, a choice not to minimise but to focus, to expand possibilities.”

The couturier held the highly anticipated show in the comfort of the Paris boutique Rue de Marignan, with fashion enthusiasts and connoisseurs in attendance. The couture presentation saw the likes of many notable names in the fashion world such as Raf Simons, Jonathan Anderson and Matthieu Blazy seated front row.

As models lined up to show off the much-awaited collection, the audience couldn’t help but hold their breaths for the big revelation. The collection featured a theme of geometric patterns that stayed consistent throughout the show. It was inspired by the idea of honouring Azzedine Alaïa’s notions of femininity- curves and circles that represent circles of friends. “I always wanted Alaïa to be about more than the clothes. Because it is… It’s about life and about being together,” reflected Mulier.

The collection featured an artsy yet sublime aspect that drew romantic silhouettes across models who donned the ensembles. Strong influences of spherical motifs layered with triumphant textures were visible in each design presented. Although the geoid shape continued to make a reappearance, the collection also consisted of draped contours along with fringe details. It’s fairly safe to say the designs stood in contrast against the all-white décor. The show also added the much-needed dramatics by adding harem trousers and jumpsuits that called attention to the layers upon layers worth of fabric cut in asymmetric patterns. Proving that each thread woven, each pattern cut and each creation donned is a work of art.

Alaia’s creations since the beginning of its inception have been crafted for the woman. Holding her in the highest of regards and painting her as a muse for each sketch depicted. Mulier translates this message well within this collection and approaches it with much detail and thought behind every stitch. It wouldn’t be an Alaia show without the finer attention to detail and garments crafted with the utmost passion for artistry. The collection featured each item being created out of a single yarn of Merino wool – which is a fabric that has been in development for a year by the team behind this couture creation.

The show was, all in all, an applaudable moment that garnered the reaction of amazement from the audience and placed Mulier front and centre for the fashion world appreciate.