The 1960s was a transformative time and the women’s fashion of the decade reflected that. With movement in mind, fashion designers made hemlines higher, dresses looser and heels lower.
You can credit Roger Vivier for that last change: the French designer’s buckle‐embellished, block‐heeled pumps, which debuted in his collaborator Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian collection in 1965, were a defining shoe silhouette at the time. The pumps were formally christened the Belle Vivier after they were worn by leading French actress Catherine Deneuve in the 1967 film Belle de Jour.
The Belle Vivier pumps are just one example of how Vivier revolutionised women’s shoes in the ’60s. The decade, which shared Vivier’s appetite for all things new, was a fruitful one for the designer and now, that pivotal period is once again inspiring his namesake label—this time, under the helm of creative director, Gherardo Felloni.
The Inspirations Behind Roger Vivier’s FW24 Collection
For the brand’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Felloni celebrates the avant‐garde spirit of the ’60s by drawing upon the maison’s most unconventional designs, such as the Virgule, which features heels that curve inwards, reminiscent of a comma—the shoes still look as radical today as when Vivier unveiled them in 1963. This season, Felloni has redesigned the Virgule as Mary Janes, one of the favoured footwear styles of the ’60s as well as of the moment, owing to the fashion crowd’s penchant for nostalgia.
Felloni has also revived one of Vivier’s most unique shoe details: an elongated tapered square toe resembling the beak of a duck, which offered a counterpoint to the round‐toe shoes that dominated women’s fashion in the ’50s. This playful detail is found in the Viv’ Canard line—“canard” being the French word for duck—introduced last season and which has now been expanded to include pumps, slingback heels and booties.
The eccentricity does not end there. When creating the new Viv’ Podium shoes, Felloni looked to the buckle of the maison’s iconic Viv’ Choc bag, with its rectangular shape and rounded corners. He added the buckle to the base of each heel, giving the Viv’ Podium platform sandals and booties their striking silhouettes. Besides being an eye‐catching detail, the buckle nods to the geometric shapes that were trendy in ’60s design, something that is also reflected in the circular Viv’ Choc Royale Hobo bag.
In shaking up Roger Vivier’s signature shoes and details, Felloni continues to honour the brand’s rich heritage while demonstrating the same inventive spirit that its founder had possessed. The ’60s may be long past, but you can still experience the thrill of a new Roger Vivier shoe with the maison’s FW24 collection.
Roger Vivier Opens ‘Vivier Op-Tical’ Pop-Up In Singapore
In celebration of its new collection, Roger Vivier is launching its Vivier Op-Tical pop-up at Marina Bay Sands. The playful pop-up, which is located on Level 1, showcases the brand’s new shoes and bags amidst a striking space inspired by the Op Art movement of the ’60s. The pop-up is adorned with optical illusions—think black-and-white checkerboards and geometric forms—creating a theatrical atmosphere that is best experienced in real life. Of course, the pop-up is also worth a visit for discovering Roger Vivier’s latest collection.
Roger Vivier’s Vivier Op-Tical pop-up is located at Marina Bay Sands Level 1. It runs from 22 August to 1 September 2024.
This story first appeared in the August 2024 issue of GRAZIA Singapore.
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