Every season, like clockwork, the relevance of New York Fashion Week is reexamined. And every season, we are reminded again that there are certain things that can only come out of the American fashion capital. Like Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show, which was held on Wednesday morning, right before the New York Fashion Week calendar officially starts. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez kicked off the fashion month on their terms with an intimate, light-filled presentation, and sent down the runway an array of great clothes that you can already picture being worn on the streets of, well, New York. Below, GRAZIA Singapore offers up the gist of the new collection.
The Collection
McCollough and Hernandez may have been stripping things back to the core of Proenza Schouler in recent seasons (recall the funnel-neck knits, the sharp blazers, the sophisticated separates and the sheer dresses of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection, which came mostly in neutral colours like black and white). But minimalists, they are not.
For Spring/Summer 2025, the designers of Proenza Schouler unveiled a lively, and even quirky, collection of oversized shirt dresses; coats with belted collars; sweeping, striped dresses that ended in frayed edges; and fringed, off-shoulder gowns. On top of neutrals, the clothes came in daytime colours like blue, beige and even pale pinks and purples.
@proenzaschouler Proenza Schouler Spring Summer 2025: Look 43 Discover the collection now, at proenzaschouler.com #proenzaschouler ♬ original sound – proenzaschouler
There is a windswept energy to the collection: the tops came with cape extensions and the dresses were draped with sharply-cut folds, which flapped as models walked. For the evening, there was a line-up of airy, jersey gowns with soft pleats and ruching—the quietest pieces in the collection, but certainly not to be overlooked.
The clothes were full of character and looked easy to move around in, which is perfect for city dwellers who want others to be struck by their great sense of style.
The Trends
Stripes were everywhere in the collection, from the nautical-looking prints seen on the shirts, to the bold, deliberately broken-up lines that made the dresses all the more striking. Grid patterns also appeared on tailored pieces. The lines can be traced back to the works of American artist Barnett Newman, a key inspiration for McCollough and Hernandez this season. Also, going by the dresses and skirts of Proenza Schouler’s collection, it looks like fringes are not going anywhere next season.
The Craft
The aforementioned fringed gowns are meticulously made with long strips of silk organza tubes filled with air—mesmerising to watch in motion. So are the car wash fringe skirts, which were punctuated by metal grommets for a cool, punkish edge. Also, leaning a little towards the boho chic look are the striped dresses with raw edges. These summer-vacation-ready ensembles were styled with matching sandals with fun, frayed details.
The Setting
Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 show took place on a light-filled floor of the New York Mercantile Building, marked by tall windows and a high ceiling. It evoked a sense of space and tranquillity—and it certainly added to the sense of ease that ran through the collection.
The Celebrities
Influencer and Instagram It-girl Devon Lee Carson made her runway debut at the show, modelling a lilac blazer, a black wrap top, black wool pants and a pair of loafers—very unlike her usual Cali girl style. Ella Emhoff (aka Kamala Harris’s stepdaughter) and Emily Ratajkowski were also in attendance at the show. Other than that, Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 fashion show was a low-key event. Think of it as the calm before the storm that is the official New York Fashion Week.
The Looks
Below, see the top looks from Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
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