Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent gave an interview at the turn of the millennium where, when pressed on who the woman he designed for was, professed she was indeed himself. “After I read it, I thought, ‘OK, maybe that’s where I want to start,” mused current creative director Anthony Vaccarello at his Spring/Summer 2025 show at Paris Fashion Week.
The Saint Laurent woman loves to indulge in darker penchants, is governed by instinctual desires and is the proud owner of modern agency. With these attributes come great power and since the dawn of the Maison in 1961, we’ve seen a celebration of them: those tuxedo-inspired smokings, the safari jacket, even the transparent black blouse which caused a real stir when Mr. Laurent’s friend and model, Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain, stormed down the runway with nothing underneath it. It was the 60s and the thought of a woman wearing a men’s silhouette, and all it represented, was deemed rather absurd. This season, from the get-go, this same spirit is alive.
Amongst a set which nodded to its founder’s famous gardens in Marrakech, the show opened with fluid, dexterous suiting. Expertly tailored, these were accessorised with traditionally masculine pieces: wide ties, collared shirts, thick-rimmed glasses. Some were punctured with an oversized bomber or trench. One look was modelled by Bella Hadid who made her return to the runway after a two-year hiatus.
Soon after, a parade of bright, baroque jackets arrived with organza halter tops and pleated skirts. Elsewhere, languid silk-print evening pyjamas were styled with long tunics and waist sashes. According to the show notes, these latter ensembles echo the vibrant garments often seen in the works of painters Mr. Laurent cherished.
Like Luquet de Saint Germain, many models have played important roles within the house throughout its decades in operation. As such, all looks in the SS25 collection are named after those women. And, just because it’s worth noting and because Vaccarello is more than ahead of his time, a major costume exhibition is planned for 2026 at the Musee Galliera in Paris. It celebrates how women adopted and adapted male dress from the 18th and 19th century onwards. How fitting.
See every look from the Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025 runway show. You can also watch the show below.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.
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