FASHION

By Pema Bakshi

Paris Fashion Week FW23: At Miu Miu, Innerwear Makes A Big Impact

It's librarian chic with a risqué twist for Miuccia Prada

For Miu Miu Fall Winter 2023, Miuccia Prada set her sights on some classic feminine tropes before turning them on their heads.

From the moment actress Mia Goth opened the show, it was clear that Mrs Prada wanted to play on notions of ‘femme’, exploring it as a spectrum while reflecting its younger consumer’s progressive and brazen attitudes. And unlike Prada’s subdued presentation in Milan that aimed to bring value to everydayness, the little sister brand was ready to have some fun with the outlandish.

Strutting down the runway with fastidious confidence, frazzled but possessed with purpose, we immediately sense that these models have a purpose beyond getting dressed for the day. So rushed that they accidentally tucked their prim, buttoned-up cardigans into their pantyhose and didn’t have time to smooth their unkempt hair. Some have even forgotten to wear pants entirely. But it’s all part of the joke—and the delicate separates are simply divine.

Contrast then becomes a theme of sorts. Sensual boudoir slips with floral embroidery slinked under rugged parkas and robust leather jackets layered over each other, top-heavy looks paired with dainty kitten heels, and muted turtlenecks accompany bedazzled briefs—which naturally became the highlight of the collection. Even though jewel-encrusted knickers might be even less wearable than the viral micro mini skirt, we’re sure this is just the beginning for innerwear as outerwear. Even Prada herself wants to hop on board. “If I were younger, I would go out in panties,” she exclaimed after the show.

While there was no shortage of exciting statement pieces, practicality had its presence. New Balance X Miu Miu sneakers were featured below leggings, zip-up hoodies and coats with messenger bags.

As always, there was a strong focus on accessories—a major commercial strength of the fashion house. Roomy bowler bags hung from the crooks of arms, and the brand’s matelassé bags reappeared in new shapes, some of which even boasted keys. Where last year’s fall collection ignited a frenzy over the ballet flat, this season, footwear options included patent slingbacks with multiple extended buckle fastenings were classic Prada ingenuity—something unique and luxurious enough to generate a buzz but versatile enough to tickle anyone’s fancy.

Amongst the spectacle and headline-grabbing twists are some extremely thoughtful wardrobe pieces made for the real world. As Prada expressed, “I can’t leave fashion [in] a place of nonsense…even if there’s some excitement and sexiness, I think we have to dress for thinking.”

Familiar faces on the runway cemented that this was a celebration of those doing things their way; Mia Goth, Zaya Wade and Ethel Cain, who made their catwalk debuts, and Amelia Gray Hamlin before Emma Corrin’s crowd-pleasing close.