PFW: Taking Shape In Layers At Hermès Spring/Summer 2025

As she celebrates ten years at the helm, Nadège Vanhée isn't slowing down any time soon

Along with Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, there’s another powerhouse in fashion celebrating a decade at the helm of a heritage brand: Nadège Vanhée, creative director at Hermès. For Spring/Summer 2025, the designer celebrated her tenure with an ode to the understated elegance she has consistently delivered, transforming the atelier with her thoroughly modern approach. This collection, presented in Paris, was so clearly a love letter to craftsmanship, the hands that shape materials, and the tools and tricks refined over generations. The result? A wardrobe that masterfully strikes a harmony amongst dynamic variations.

“Style as something ceaselessly crafted, forged, timeless and unique,” read the shownotes, which broke down the foundations of style, according to Hermès: versatile layers that merge effortlessly, dualities of light and opacity, and tactility, where rich textures and fabrications come together.

Vanhée’s vision for Spring/Summer 2025 centred on versatility. Layers were deeply considered and styled to bring something unique to a look, holding their own while contributing to the greater picture via added dimension, complexity, and function. And speaking of function, the famed leather goods brand never skimps on the details, and this season saw an emphasis on utility with a wrap dust coat in silk and wool adorned with loops and pockets for glasses and a calfskin coat, ingeniously concealing a bomber jacket and drawstring vest.

Silhouettes played with light and perception, exploring the tension between opacity and transparency through prints and material. A flowing silk mesh skirt zipped down the centre, revealing a high-waisted culotte beneath, while an apron dress in ebony brown came to life with woven organdy bands in bas-relief. Cotton poplin smock dresses and reversible utility jackets in alabaster chevron denim offered a more casual edge, lifted, of course, by the iconic Birkin à l’envers and Plume bags.

At the heart of any Hermès collection is tactility, and for her milestone anniversary, Vanhée ensured this was emphasised and expanded upon. From wood-soled sandals to supple leathers in hues of camel, nutmeg, and kraft paper, as well as accessories—geometric earrings crafted from the same leather tabs that reinforce Hermès bags—the kaleidoscope of finishes never fails to inject a playful twist to the brand’s more mature side. Despite celebrating ten years at a house that’s been around since the 1830s, Vanhee’s youthful spirit and deft understanding of womenswear sit in perfect harmony with Hermès’ legacy of unmatched quality, elegance and craftsmanship.