PFW: A Leap In The Dark For Hermès Fall/Winter 2025

This season, the Horse Girl is all grown up with equine glamour that exudes an urban sophistication

In a darkened space complete with sand flooring to mimic a stable, Hermès unveiled a Fall/Winter 2025 collection steeped in elusive sophistication. It was a palette inspired by the night—charcoal, ash, deep gray, and an infinite black. Whispers of cypress green, marble white, and warm, soft browns punctuated the darkness, but the power of shadow work was most definitely felt.

Nadège Vanhée, now over a decade into her tenure at the house, has built on an aesthetic rooted in a fusion of equestrian influences and urban elegance. The coat, an undisputed staple of everyday dressing, emerged as the collection’s hero. From goatskin pea coats and silk gabardine bombers to shearling styles, outerwear was rigorously crafted yet effortlessly wearable. Modularity remained a key tenet—coats unzipped into blankets, overcoats reversed, and saddle-flap-inspired shorts that could be reconfigured added a sense of utilitarianism that doesn’t compromise on luxury.

Layered styling is also a signature of Vanhée, who draped long wool coats with the ease of a thrown-on scarf, chunky knits slung over shoulders, and floor-skimming dusters paired with structured leather shorts for a dynamic silhouette. The contrast between soft and severe, the tailored and the plush, defined the collection.

But beneath the surface, Hermès’s enduring commitment to premium craftsmanship sang out. Marbled prints—hand-painted—played tricks on the eye, while turtlenecks and bodycon dresses came embedded with zippers, and felt, as fluid as silk, was worked into sculptural shapes that framed the body in movement.

Fall/Winter 2025 spoke in powerful whispers rather than grand gestures, commanding attention with its foundational precision and aesthetic discernment. With every cut and every detail, Vanhée provided the modern woman with everything she needs.