Gucci Cruise 2026: Glamour And Nostalgia Ultra

Ahead of Demna’s arrival at the Italian fashion house, Gucci unveils a collection that nods to the brand’s past—and possible future

Backstage at the Gucci Cruise 2026 fashion show in Florence, Italy — Backstage at the Gucci Cruise 2026 fashion show, which was presented at Palazzo Settimanni in Florence

With the future of luxury fashion looking rocky, Gucci is, understandably, feeling nostalgic. The Italian fashion brand returned to the city of Florence, where it was founded 104 years ago, to present its Cruise 2026 collection. This is the second collection to be designed by Gucci’s in-house team, following the exit of former creative director Sabato De Sarno from the brand. Demna, who previously helmed Balenciaga, was announced as his successor, but the exact date of his debut show at the house—as with so many things in the fashion industry today—remains uncertain.

Of course, Gucci has weathered rocky and uncertain times before. With its Cruise 2026 show, the Kering-owned brand seems to remind us of its staying power. The runway show was staged at the Palazzo Settimanni, a 15th-century Florentine building that now houses Gucci’s vast archives.

“Returning to Florence—and specifically to Palazzo Settimanni—is both a tribute and a declaration of intent,” shared Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, in a statement released before the show. “The archive is not merely a repository of our past; it is a living space where Gucci’s identity codes are preserved and reinterpreted through an ongoing dialogue. Presenting the Cruise 2026 collection here reaffirms our bond with the cultural and artisanal heritage that defines us, while projecting it into the future with coherence and ambition.”⁠

Backstage at the Gucci Cruise 2026 fashion show

Both Gucci’s and Florence’s pasts are beautifully preserved at the Palazzo Settimanni, which former creative director Alessandro Michele took pains to restore during his tenure at the Italian fashion house. The room where Gucci’s Cruise 2026 show was presented exudes an old-world opulence, with its marble flooring, arch windows and grand chandeliers. The picture was complete when the ghosts of Gucci’s past appeared on the runway.

Models wore the boxy tailoring and glossy leather pencil skirts that were so favoured by De Sarno. Faux furs and lingerie-like lace pieces alluded to Tom Ford’s influential era at Gucci. Meanwhile, Michele’s penchant for colour, pattern and flamboyance informed the romantic dresses and pussy bow blouses in the collection. Together, the melange made sense: those boxy blazers were worn over ruffled shirts, the pussy bow blouses were neatly tucked into the pencil skirts, and the furs of Tom Ford’s Gucci were styled with the sheer, GG monogram tights of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci.

Besides travelling through time via the Gucci archives, the collection also emphasised Florence’s rich history of textile production, which flourished in the 14th century. Shimmering brocades were used to craft the fur-lined jackets, while colourful velvets were used in the high-waisted skinny pants. Dresses and skirts were cut from intricate and delicate floral lace, and more flowers were found on the collection’s silk blouses.

Another nod to Florence was seen in the new Gucci Giglio bag, a roomy tote bag lined with the Gucci Web stripe. The bag takes its name from the Italian word for lily, a flower that has served as the symbol of Florence since the medieval era.

But enough about the past. What of Gucci’s future? A hint of it could be seen in the volume of the jackets, the use of primary red and blue, the preponderance of feathers, and the presence of midi floral dresses with long sleeves—all Demna-isms that were established during the designer’s time at Balenciaga. Demna boldly and controversially shook up the French house’s codes, making it one of the biggest brands of the last decade. Pretty soon, we will find out if he can pull off the same stunt at Gucci.

Ahead, discover the Gucci Cruise 2026 collection.