As a melting pot of cultures and people from all around the world, putting one’s finger on New York style almost always leads to a homogenisation of its sprawling character. But on the rooftop of the city’s High Line, within close range of the brand’s headquarters, Coach presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which, in paying homage to the idiosyncracies of the Concrete Jungle, put forward a meaningful representation of the city’s unique sartorial footprint.
Despite his British roots, creative director Stuart Vevers demonstrates a compelling understanding of classic American fashion. With a deep appreciation of Coach’s four-decade reign, the designer has reinvigorated the brand’s quiet heroes over his decade as creative lead, establishing a contemporary edge that has seen younger consumers, particularly, flock to the New York-born brand in recent years.
Expanding on this energetic refresh, Vevers’ SS25 collection focused on warping archetypal Americana fashion to resonate more with its modern citizens. Per the show notes, classical tailoring and couture-inspired cocktail dresses were playfully flanked by more casual pieces pulled from the counter-cultural realms of skate, heavy metal and new-wave, creating a runway that was both youthful and timeless, simple and multifarious at once.
Classics like navy blazers, chinos, and pinstripe suits made up a blueprint that came to life with unexpected fits and proportions, while ’60s-inspired dresses in candy-coloured palettes and drop hem silhouettes that were left ‘lived-in’ called on the imperfectness of pre-loved clothing—a movement Coach has been on the forefront of with its (Re)Loved program, which restores and resells vintage Coach pieces using craft and customisation. The art of “re-loving” is also prominently featured on the runway in denim trousers, moto skirts, and aviator jackets crafted from post-consumer garments artfully repurposed to create something new. Though it’s common for designers to want to rewrite the book with their own stamp, Vevers’ approach embraces the house’s rich legacy of craft, as well as the inherent charm of pieces with history.
And speaking of charm, graphic T-shirts with fun interpretations of tourist fashion and New York pop and rock ‘n’ roll iconography were a clever inclusion, with ‘I <3 NY’ t-shirts embroidered and embellished with personal and luxury details.
In the leather goods department, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection marked the debut of the Chain Tabby 26, a new interpretation of Coach’s iconic Tabby bag. Crafted in soft-grain leather and available in various colourways, the new It-bag boats a metallic chain strap with details inspired by historic leathercraft. The collection also featured new variations on last season’s Frame bag, including top handle versions in exaggerated sizes and several silhouettes that apply iconic Coach Frame hardware, first designed for the brand by Bonnie Cashin in the 1960s. With personalisation and individuality governing contemporary fashion trends, Coach promises ample satisfaction in that area, with hand-written scribbled prints on ready-to-wear and accessories and Vevers’ famous family of Shape bags in heart, star and dinosaur shapes.
This story first appeared on GRAZIA International.
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