By Pema Bakshi

Hedi Slimane Captures The Seduction Of Indie Sleaze For Celine Fall/Winter 2023

The real Y2K revival is here
Kaia Gerber walking at Celine Fall/Winter 2023, courtesy of Celine

For Fall/Winter 2023, Celine hosted a grand show at the Wiltern Theatre in Los Angeles.

Aptly titled the ‘Age of Indieness’, the collection was a renaissance of creative director Hedi Slimane’s 2000s grunge era.  Reimagining a plethora of 2000s staples—think military silhouettes, leather pants, flouncy blouses with waistcoats, floral mini dresses and structured outerwear—the runway was awash with the gritty glamour that defined the bygone era. On the eveningwear front, Slimane leant into his signature embellishment, releasing a slew of sequin and crystal cropped jackets, fringed mini dresses, and artfully draped gowns.

But, of course, it wouldn’t be Y2K without the right accessories. Taking us right back to a prosperous time in Hollywood, where the Olsens dominated our moodboards and Venti lattes served as accoutrements, Slimane did well to reacquaint us with oversized leather tote bags, skinny scarves, slouched knee-high boots, waist belts and sunglasses big enough to mask hungover faces.

Indie iconoclasts, The White Stripes, played original music to score the show, while performances by Iggy Pop, The Strokes, Interpol and The Kills hammered home the nostalgia. Old-school merch was also found matchbooks, guitar picks, peppermints, iron-on patches, pin-on buttons and posters emblazoned with “Celine at the Wiltern”. Elsewhere, celebrities like Courtney Cox, Paris Hilton, Emma Roberts and Austin Butler sat alongside rock ‘n’ roll royalty like Kim Gordon, Queens of the Stone Age’s Josh Homme, and Priscilla Presley.

Strutting down the runway were also some familiar faces with Kaia Gerber and Dree Hemingway, who embodied morning-after glamour with artfully dishevelled hair and lived-in smoky eyes—a look created by makeup artist Aaron de Mey.

While most were captivated by the rallying of an often-overlooked moment in fashion, Slimane’s ability to rewrite these tropes with a contemporary sensibility leaves much to consider about our ever-changing obsession with ‘aeshetics’. And in a time where throwback fashion is relegated to gimmicks like rhinestones, Ugg boots, and velvet tracksuits, the creative director’s vision for the Y2K revival offers a compelling alternative to the Indie Sleaze we once knew.

Now, to celebrate the release of the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, the show has been made into a short film. Featuring an original soundtrack produced by Jack White and performed by The White Stripes, the film gives viewers a chance to see the pivotal show and dive into a whole new wave of nostalgia dressing. Watch below…