PFW: A Crash Course At Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024

As the Scandi fashion house edges on thirty years in business, there are no signs of slowing down for Johnny Johansson

This sentiment of resilience, forces colliding and tough exteriors was central to Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 collection at PFW — PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: A model walks the runway during the Acne Studios Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on February 28, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

In Paris, the setting for Acne Studios Fall/Winter 2024 show comprised a stark white room with towering thrones made up of old tyre corpses. Created by the Estonian sculptor, Villu Jaanisoo, utilising recycled materials, the abstract centrepieces coordinated with the clothes on display.

“What interests me about working with tyres is the certain ‘inner resistance’ of this material,” explains Jaanisoo of his artful proclivities. “It requires a lot of physical as well as mental force to shape them; the resistance that exists in each tyre makes the surface of the sculpture alive, almost baroque.”

This sentiment of resilience, forces colliding and tough exteriors makes sense given that crashes of the automotive variety inspired creative director Johnny Johansson. But don’t worry, these are the kinds of clothes that might protect you. From fitted dresses with tapered cups, motorsport-inspired bodysuits, waxy layers, and outerwear with ear-high collars turned up, there was a sense of shielding. Plays of contrast were also found in tough leathers moulded into drapery, silk chiffon fabrics made into taut crinoline skirts, knitwear woven to resemble corsetry and bulbous silhouettes reminiscent of airbags.

Long hailed as the pinnacle of Scandi Chic, Acne Studios nails a sought-after balance of IYKYK cool with broader commercial appeal. But as we see it mature, its offering moves up the scale on the ready-to-wear spectrum, providing plenty of editorial and red carpet catnip over everyday wear.

Founded in 1996, the brand is millennial in age (yes, that was almost thirty years ago somehow) but still manages to enthral emerging younger markets and charm even the most traditionalist of fashion critics. With its edgy streetwear aesthetic getting a lot of action as of late, it’s fitting that Johansson would now want to push it further. We do hope he doesn’t veer too far off course but crashes only permeate his moodboards, not his track record.