Submerged in warm waters the colour of jade, I am surrounded by thousands—possibly more—pink blobs of jellyfish with the texture of gummy bears. Fear not: these ones do not sting. I am swimming in Lenmakana Lake, in the heart of Misool, alongside 10 others who were strangers to me just days ago.
Misool is one of four main islands that make up Raja Ampat, an archipelago of 1,500 islands within Indonesia. Located in Indonesia’s northwest Papua, Raja Ampat boasts the highest marine biodiversity on Earth, with over 1,300 species of fish and 600 species of coral. This Unesco Biosphere Reserve is a haven for marine enthusiasts, divers, and nature lovers.
This is not my maiden voyage to Raja Ampat—I have visited four times, yet I have barely scratched the surface of the archipelago’s 40,000sqkm expanse.
Because of work commitments, my last trip was pre-Covid. Five years later, longing for Raja Ampat’s underwater charms, I signed up for a seven-night journey through South and Central Raja Ampat aboard Aliikai, a 42m yacht handcrafted from ironwood in South Sulawesi using traditional Konjo boat-building methods in the style of a phinisi—complete with two 28m masts and seven sails. Built to traverse Indonesia’s sprawling archipelago, phinisis are known for their curved hulls, intricate woodwork, and durability.
Aliikai features seven spacious cabins with whitewashed, Ibiza-chic interiors, accommodating up to 14guests. I booked through YMA Yachting, which manages Aliikai’s marketing, bookings, and guest experience. The firm also oversees other yachts, including Mutiara Laut, a two-mast schooner and Aliikai’s sister vessel, on behalf of French owner Gregory Galliard.
Galliard’s motivation for acquiring these vessels was rooted in a desire to promote thoughtful exploration that respects both local heritage and the environment, while connecting like-minded travellers.
My previous trips to Raja Ampat had been longer—15-night expeditions with hardcore divers where diving was the primary agenda. This time, the group aboard Aliikai was mixed: seasoned divers, beginners, and first-timers. Cruise director Eko Christian grouped divers by experience level, with no more than four divers assigned per dive master.
We explored vibrant sites such as Shadow Reef and Melissa’s Garden. At Shadow Reef, an oceanic manta glided past me, made a graceful U-turn, and swept within inches of my head—its soft belly speckled with inky black spots. I held my breath in reverence of the gentle giant. Even after 300 dives, encounters like this never lose their magic. Melissa’s Garden remains a favourite, especially when the currents run fierce. Schools of fish swirl around us in dizzying flashes of colour. Soft corals unfurl, vivid and wild in the surging water. Novice divers use reef hooks to anchor themselves, allowing them to safely watch the spectacle.
Between dives, we stayed active. Aboard Aliikai, some took to stand-up paddleboarding, wakeboarding, or short hikes to panoramic viewpoints. The easy hike up Pianemo Hill rewards visitors with a bird’s-eye view of Raja Ampat’s iconic karst formations and turquoise lagoons. On our penultimate day, we concluded with a final dive at Mioskon. The reef teemed with anthias and fusiliers, while trevallies patrolled in the distance—a fitting finale to our journey.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue of GRAZIA Singapore.
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