Singapore is a food haven, there’s no doubt about it. From some of the most upscale Japanese omakase establishments to authentic wok hei-heavy local joints, our little red dot may not seem so little when it comes to the food scene. That’s why it’s no surprise at all that legacy Greek restaurant Estiatorio Milos is making its mark here, on our corner of the world.
The History
Founded by Greece-born and raised restauranteur Costas Spiliadis and started in Montreal in 1979, Estiatorio Milos is a family-owned restaurant franchise that prides itself on serving authentic food from the Mediterranean region. I spoke to Mario Zeniou, the Chief Operating Officer of Estiatorio Milos, about the driving force behind Estiatorio Milos’s move to join the Singapore dining scene, and try out some of their star menu items.
“I don’t think Singaporeans have seen 100% what real Greek cuisine is. When chef Costas opened [his] first restaurant in Montreal, the reason was to show North America what real Greek cuisine has to offer. The amazing quality of fish, the amazing quality of vegetables, the simplicity of the cooking, the simplicity of the seasoning.” He shares, “This is the way that Chef Costas was brought up with his family, and this is the way that Greek food is served in Greece [now]. So we hope we will be able to do the same here in Singapore and offer the simplicity and quality of our cooking to Singaporeans.”
The Ingredients
From the fresh fish that is flown in from the picturesque islands in Greece, to the largest tomatoes I’ve personally ever laid eyes on, Estiatorio Milos’s menu is one where the ingredients truly take centre stage. I visited the new space at Marina Bay Sands myself, not long after its official opening in late July. So I can attest to palatable difference in flavour, when one uses real, fresh ingredients.
Don’t overlook a simple salad, for example; the quality of each ingredient is more than evident in the restaurant’s Tomato Salad. With vine-ripe beefsteak tomatoes from the island of Crete at the forefront, the salad also combines cucumbers, peppers, red onions and Kalamata olives. This medley of greens is then tossed in a delish combination of extra virgin olive oil—yet another item that Estiatorio Milos is known for—, sea salt and barrel-aged feta cheese. While each individual vegetable sings of its own crisp flavours, the olive oil and feta cheese add some depth and warmth to the starter.
The crown jewel of Estiatorio Milos, though, is the fresh fish market. With up to 15 different varieties of wild-caught fresh fish on display, the market allows you to see and pick the star ingredient of your dinner before the chefs prepare it a number of different ways. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by the options, the wait staff are also ready to recommend the ideal cook for your choice of fish. As Zeniou tells me, “It’s all about inviting them to the fish market, [so we can] interact and engage with guests.”
This participative process is something that Estiatorio Milos is proud to provide to guests. I, for one, found the clean and crisp notes of the Lavraki (sea bass) baked in sea salt that much more delightful, after having seen it fresh on ice just minutes before. When you keep seasoning to a minimum, it’s a wonder how much more flavour you can taste. And the chefs put on a real show as well. When the fish is done baking, the chefs bring it out whole and present it to the table, before serving up portions for each guest. The thick coat of sea salt you first see around the fish simply elevates the pristine quality of the delicate meat.
The Wines
No good meal is complete without a delicious wine. On a quest to elevate the opinion of Greek wines amongst the public, the restaurant also carries an extensive wine list, of which more than half is from Greece. “All the varietals that we offer at Estiatorio Milos are the best made; made out of the best wine makers in Greece,” says Zeniou. Plus, all the staff members are equipped to recommend different wine options depending the type of fish you opt for. After all, not all fish dishes are to be paired with a white wine.
During my visit, I also tried two of the restaurant’s cocktails, the Santorini Sunrise and the Martini Of The Gods. Both drinks were delicious and complex, but I was partial to the Santorini Sunrise, for its light and refreshing notes that paired beautifully with the fresh notes of the fish. Blood orange gin, Campari and grapefruit, what could go wrong?
The Philoxenia
In addition to the top-notch selection of food and drink, I also enjoyed Estiatorio Milos’s warm hospitality. As soon as you walk in, you are invited to come in and enjoy philoxenia, the sacred art that is at the heart of Greek hospitality. The concept of philoxenia is all about making a stranger feel like they’re right at home. Just like in the Mediterranean, guests who visit the restaurant are treated like family. Everyone is allowed, nay, encouraged to engage and be themselves. Ask questions about the origins of your food, have a real conversation with the servers—all of whom genuinely welcome feedback about the food and drink—and have a laugh. Estiatorio Milos may be an upscale location, but there’s no pretension here. Grab your family or your best buddies, and you can all indulge in the family-style dishes together.
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