Bangkok gets a new luxury hotel every so often. Most arrive with fanfare—“world’s best” status, statement-making rooftops, splashy openings. By contrast, the return of Dusit Thani Bangkok last September was strikingly understated. Everyone knew the rebuild was underway, but when it reopened, it did so with restraint. Then again, the Dusit Thani didn’t need cymbals or a PR parade.
When it first opened in 1970, the hotel made history as Bangkok’s tallest building, its golden spire lording over Lumphini Park. What piqued my interest were the stories from guests who had stayed in the 1980s, speaking of it with fondness, like a long-lost friend. I had to see André Fu’s latest work in Bangkok for myself.
The lobby is the first thing you notice. It’s tall, composed—grand but quiet. At its centre, a six-pointed lotus-leaf ceiling from the original building has been recreated in brushed gold. A jade-green marble bar sits beneath, low and anchoring. Grey-veined stone floors and bronze lattice screens subtly divide the space. Two hand-painted pillars salvaged from the old Benjarong restaurant stand near the entrance, largely unadorned. No wall art, just texture: oak, silk, polished plaster. Other elements from the original hotel were carefully stored and reintegrated where they made sense. Even the koi had been relocated to Dusit Thani Hua Hin until the rebuild was complete.
Rooms start at 50 square metres, with four-metre-wide windows overlooking Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s answer to Central Park. The view is framed by a wall-to-wall daybed upholstered in slate grey. Sliding teak panels separate the bed from the bath. A palette of celadon, sand and brass bathes the room in warm, neutral tones. An oak desk is built into the wall; wardrobe handles are stitched in leather. It feels more like a tailored apartment than a hotel room.
Food and beverage have been completely overhauled. The Cannubi is Umberto Bombana’s first restaurant in Southeast Asia. Known as the king of white truffles, Bombana is chef-owner of 8½ Otto e Mezzo in Hong Kong—still the only Italian restaurant outside Italy to hold three Michelin stars. For months leading up to its opening, Bangkok’s society and food scene buzzed. I was lucky to get a table.
In Bangkok, executive chef Andrea Susto leads the kitchen. The burrata was creamy and paired beautifully with sweet basil and San Marzano tomatoes. The tagliatelle with slow-cooked ragù Bolognese was rich but not heavy, the al dente pasta drenched in a wine-laced sauce. I finished every bite. From the 350-label wine list, the sommelier selected a Barolo—firm, earthy, with the perfect touch of acidity.
The drinks programme is equally polished. Martini Bar delivers the classics, Spire Rooftop Bar offers panoramic views, and 1970 Bar on the 39th floor serves serious cocktails developed with the team behind Vesper, one of Bangkok’s top cocktail bars. My 1970 Martini was served tableside: cold, clean, and fuss-free.
In its past life, many loyalists would visit Dusit Thani Bangkok for one dish: the slow-braised beef rib in green curry. While it’s no longer served at the hotel, you’ll find it a five-minute walk away. Benjarong, the hotel’s former signature Thai restaurant, now occupies a colonial house across the lawn. I had to try it. The beef fell from the bone at the touch of my fork; the gravy was fragrant with basil and fresh herbs—exactly as my dining companion, a local, remembered it. But these days, Benjarong no longer holds the spotlight alone. It has a worthy contender within the hotel’s walls: Pavilion, led by chef Rosarin Sriprathum, is also building a following with its refined take on regional Thai cuisine.
Bangkok’s hotel landscape grows more crowded each year, with recent openings from Ritz-Carlton and Aman making bold statements and setting new standards. But Dusit Thani Bangkok remains in a league of its own. With decades of history and a deep sense of place, it draws locals and long-time guests who value tradition, consistency and polished service.
That is the grand dame’s quiet power. No fanfare—just hospitality done right. The kind that remembers to relocate its koi.
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