The fragrance market has exploded in recent years, with an estimated 6,000 fragrances released globally in 2024 compared to approximately 3,500 in 2023. That’s up to 16 new fragrances released a day in the last calendar year. With the sheer number of new scents, it’s easy to see how trying perfumes and building your fragrance collection is harder than ever, as more options vie for your money and attention. From artisanal, niche creations to dupes and designer flankers, you’ve only got so much space in your vanity and only so many sprays per day.
So when you’re moving past a single, signature scent, what’s the best way to not get overwhelmed? How do you invest your money into fragrances that you’ll enjoy for a long time, instead of more fodder for your “project pan 2026”? How do you enhance your life with scents that suit your personality, rather than jumping on the latest viral bandwagon and smelling like everyone else? School is in session; grab a pen.
Entry Level: Fragrances By Style
Fragrances by style is how people typically build out a fragrance collection in the beginning—myself included. You find a style you like and stick with it. Do you prefer florals? Woody scents? Do you go for seductive every time? This straightforward approach makes it easy to find and buy more of what you already enjoy. However, it can leave you accumulating similar fragrances, and as your nearest and dearest come to know you for your signature scent, it doesn’t leave much room for diversity or personal expression. Exploring scents by style might keep you boxed in when you’d rather stand out, and might turn heads once or twice, but after a while, it will have you blending into the background—even if you’re dropping some serious coin per bottle.
Intermediate: Fragrances By Note
Like my own fragrance journey, once you’ve graduated from fragrances by style, people typically move on to fragrances by note. This involves a bit more experience with different individual notes—do you know your tuberose from your ylang ylang?—and starts to diversify your fragrance collection. You choose your scent for the occasion instead of smelling the same, if delightful, at every event. Will it be hot and humid, or will you be snuggling up by a fireplace? Are you going on a casual date night, or is it a black tie event? Planning a solo self-care night, or have an important meeting in the office? Fragrances by note can be an intuitive process for some, but it is also easily achieved these days with brands releasing their notes per fragrance in their marketing. You’ll start to see how the notes influenced your buying when you were thinking of fragrances by style, and also start to see what you really don’t like. I personally can’t stand anything with clove, and I despise banana in any fragrance, but I’ve developed an obsession with rice notes and strive to buy more lime scents. You’ll also be able to apply the style to the things you like—do I want a cosy vanilla or something more sensual? A playful, fresh Rose, or a dark, mysterious version? You can match your favourite fragrances to the mood, and still keep your signature style by elevating your approach.
Advanced: Fragrances By Perfumer
The single best tip I’ve ever had from extensive research, conversations with perfumers, trying for myself, and hours scrolling fragrance TikTok, is to explore fragrances by perfumer. This might seem harder than it actually is, with websites like Fragrantica helpfully compiling all the perfumes of individual perfumers on one page. Granted, it requires a bit more research than a few sprays in an airport duty-free, but if you’re really serious about building your personal fragrance collection, I think this is the best approach to take. You get to know the preferences and style of the perfumer, and your nose starts to detect qualities that can’t be translated in marketing. You also get to broaden your brand horizons, from designer to niche, to dupes, as typically perfumers—also known as “noses”—will create across the industry.
For example, the now well-known Francis Kurkdjian created Baccarat Rouge 540 for his eponymous label, Narciso Rodriguez’s for Her, Burberry Her, Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, and Miss Dior. Generally, these can all be defined as luminous, sensual scents, even though they’re quite different to each other. The less well-known Alberto Morillas created CK One, Acqua di Gio, Gucci Bloom, and Bvlgari Man in Black. Fresh and sophisticated scents and Morillas’ go-to, creating a fragrance collection that’s varied yet distinctly recognisable. For bold and provocative scents, Quentin Bisch created Jean Paul Gaultier’s La Belle, Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl, and Amouage Guidance. You start to recognise the personality of the nose and see if it corresponds to your personal preferences. While it might require a bit of screen time, I’ve found this method to yield great results, and I’ve discovered some of my favourite fragrances that I would never have tried.
However you build your fragrance collection, a solid rotation of scents is a great way to elevate your personal presence. Add to the experiences you’re creating and have everyone looking forward to giving you a sniff. After all, has anyone ever hated being told ‘you smell amazing’? And if you’re looking for scent knowledge from a personal angle, try going to Amaris or Escentials, where their knowledgeable staff are more than happy to discuss what you’re looking for and share their industry experience. Happy shopping.
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