Who doesn’t love a gel manicure? Personally, it’s one of those things that makes me feel like a new woman. Every time I get my nails done, I feel extra glamorous and extra pretty. Especially now that more young creatives are joining the nail industry, there is an even wider selection of different aesthetics to choose from. Whether you’re into the fun and whimsical charm-heavy designs or you’re more of a classic French tips girl, gel manicures are accessories that you can wear everyday.
When your nail tech asks you to cure your nails at every step, have you ever stopped to think about the impacts of putting your hands under the UV lamp? As I sat in the chair for hours at my last appointment, that thought kept creeping into my mind. So after my last nail appointment, I immediately reached out to Dr Shauna Tan-Chiam of The Covette Clinic. Dr Shauna is an aesthetic physician and dermatologist, who is an expert on skin health and skin longevity.
All your questions about nail curing-related skin damage answered here:
Are the UV lamps that we encounter during gel manicures actually harming us and our skin?
Dr Shauna Tan-Chiam (DST): LED or UV lamps are essential for gel manicures because the light makes the nail polish harden and become more durable. Whether the clinic uses an LED or UV lamp, it actually releases significant amounts of UVA rays.
In a recent study, published in the peer-reviewed journal Nature Communications last year, researchers exposed human and mouse cells to radiation from a popular nail lamp that is used in many U.S. nail salons. When the cells were exposed to UV light from the lamp for 20 minutes, around 30 percent of the cells died. Some of the cells that survived suffered damage to their DNA. These cell damage patterns observed were similar to those seen in people with melanoma, a type of skin cancer.
Although the evidence of cell damage is concerning, it does not truly prove that the use of UV lamps causes cancer. The studies are done in a lab, using laboratory equipment, that differs from our exposure to UVA rays in our day to day setting. Further, our manicure sessions hardly ever require 20 minutes of UV lamp exposure at a go!
Nonetheless, with any kind of UV radiation exposure from sun exposure or tanning beds, even though it may yet to be proven, I would always advise to take precautions to protect our skin, in a bid to minimise potential damage not just in terms of cancer risks, but to prevent premature skin ageing.
What damage do these rays do to our skin?
DST: The UV rays emitted from nail curing machines are mostly UVA rays, which are one of the types of UV rays that are emitted by the sun. There are 3 main types of UV radiation from sunlight: UVA has the longest wavelength and penetrates deeper into the skin at the dermis layer. It causes premature skin ageing and is associated with skin cancer.
How does the skin on our hands compare to the skin on our faces and bodies?
DST: The skin on the back of your hands (the dorsum) is much thinner than the skin on your face and body! Further, it produces less sebum and oil compared to the face and body. As such, it is more prone to dehydration and also has less protection against environmental stressors.
How else can a gel manicure damage the skin on our hands?
DST: The act of going for a manicure often involves a couple of steps: pushing back or trimming cuticles, buffing and filing of [the] nails, the actual polish application and curing or drying as necessary. Each step has its risks.
For instance, pushing back your cuticles increases your risks of infection and filing your nails excessively can cause brittle and weak nails. If they use an electric filer, they can occasionally make cuts in the surrounding skin, which increase your risks of infection. If the salon uses hand sanitisers with high alcohol content, it may cause the skin to [become] more dry so it is important to follow that up with a hand cream that has a good emollient to minimise water loss.
What are some unseen long-term effects from prolonged exposure to UV rays?
DST: As shown by the study above, prolonged exposure to UVA rays can lead to cell damage and potentially increased risks of skin cancer in the area that has been exposed. It can also cause premature aging in the dermal layer of the skin where collagen and elastin are broken down, leaving the skin looking wrinkled and saggy.
Is there a ‘safer’ way to get our nails done, then?
DST: With regards to minimizing UVA exposure from curing lamps, I usually recommend either a regular manicure/pedicure without drying from UV or LED lamps, or dip powder manicures as a good alternative. I would also have a pro-active relationship with my nail technician and let her know my concerns beforehand. From things like protecting my cuticles to minimal buffing and filing to reduce trauma, all the way to preferences regarding curing and drying.
To safely protect our hands from the damage of UV rays, is there a hand care routine you would recommend?
DST: I’m really particular about this but think of it like a skincare routine for your face! I apply a hand cream, then sunscreen with at least SPF 30 PA ++++. In this case the PA rating is crucial! Because the SPF value gives insight as to the UVB protection, but PA rating is what indicates the UVA protection. I also would advise to wear a UPF rated manicure/fingerless glove to further protect the skin on the back of your hands.
How often, then, should one get gel manicures? Is there a recommended limit?
DST: This is a tough one! Right now there is not enough evidence to show a specific limit or duration of UVA exposure via UV lamps that indicate a safe level. I would advise my patients to only keep the gel manicures to specific, special events like a wedding dinner or a birthday dinner.
For everyday nails, I honestly do love a dip powder manicure. The results are great and unless you have to damage your nails a lot, it is quite durable! I know friends who love their nail wraps which are really convenient, but they still require a UV lamp so if you are using a nail wrap, remember to take the same precautions as your gel manicures!
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