PDRN seems to be everywhere. Every new skincare drop includes it, and social media is flooded with content touting it as the next big thing for a flawless complexion. The sciency-sounding ingredient—yes, the one derived from salmon sperm—is a big hit amongst celebrities, creators, and aesthetics practitioners alike. So why isn’t your skin flawless yet? We’ve done a deep dive into the world of PDRN and caught some interesting insights into why skincare’s latest miracle ingredient isn’t producing the results you’re looking for.
What actually is PDRN?
PDRN—full name polydeoxyribonucleotide—is a substance derived from broken-up fragments of DNA, primarily from the sperm of salmon trout or chum salmon. There can be other sources of PDRN, but more on that later. The supposed wonder ingredient promotes cellular regeneration, stimulates collagen production, improves skin elasticity and hydration, and accelerates wound healing—what’s not to love? Well, these benefits are mainly seen through injectables, and very few studies have been done on topical application. In theory, PDRN won’t do you any harm in skincare, but fragments of DNA used topically might not be as marvellous as they’re made out to be, especially if you’re using the wrong type or concentration.
Types of PDRN
The original PDRN comes from salmon sperm. Sounds gross, but it works. The DNA fragments—when administered in the right way—promote the healing process, which includes tissue repair and collagen synthesis. However, the molecular size of salmon PDRN ranges from 50,000-1,500,000 Daltons, which is far bigger than the generally accepted 50 Dalton size for molecules to get into the skin with topical application and actually work. Do you see why that might be an issue for results? Additionally, in an effort to write PDRN on their products, some skincare brands are opting for ‘vegan PDRN’ or PDRN from different sources—such as ginseng—which has even less data, if any, to prove it actually works. Just because it’s called the same thing in skincare marketing doesn’t mean it actually is. To summarise, topical application of salmon PDRN could be like painting a wall and expecting to change the brickwork. Other sources of PDRN could be like using wood stain instead of paint and still expecting to change the brickwork. Would you expect your bricks to change?
PDRN Concentration
If the type of PDRN wasn’t enough to consider, the concentration of PDRN makes a huge difference too. More and more, skincare brands are adding a minimal amount of PDRN to their formulations so they can claim it in their marketing. Going back to our brick wall analogy, imagine trying to paint the wall with only 10% of the paint you need. Would you expect that to change the brickwork?
An easy way to estimate the concentration of PDRN in skincare is to look at the ingredients list. The higher up the ingredients list, the larger the concentration. Some brands also claim the PPM—parts per million—of PDRN, so you actually know how much you’re getting. Just be careful when looking, as PDRN isn’t always listed as PDRN. Check for Sodium DNA, or Deoxyribonucleic Acid, Sodium Salts too, which are other names for the molecule.
The Best PDRN Skincare Products (in our opinion)
Taking all that into consideration, we suggest you go for salmon-derived PDRN and the highest concentration you can find to have the best chance of it actually working on your skin. This might take a bit of sleuth work, but otherwise, you could be paying for products that won’t give you results or worse, wasting time and routine steps when you could be using other ingredients.
One of the ranges we recommend is Genabelle’s PDRN line, which has a selection of products to suit your needs, all with salmon-derived PDRN and the PPM clearly stated for each individual product. The PDRN 3% Hyper Boost Ampoule has a whopping 30,000PPM of Sodium DNA, compared to some popular products on the market that only contain 100-1,000PPM.
PDRN vs Other Active Ingredients
If you’re not convinced about PDRN after this, there are other active ingredients we think you should focus on to get the results you’re looking for. Any retinoids, specifically retinaldehyde or prescription-strength retinoids, are proven to work effectively and boost collagen production, while improving skin texture and clarity. Ample data backs up these claims, and you’ll see the benefits with consistent use. And if you’re not wearing SPF regularly, don’t bother with retinoids or PDRN, as your results will be destroyed by UV damage anyway.
Final Thoughts on PDRN
PDRN—as an injectable—shows promise. When it actually gets where it needs to be to work, it can be a great addition to a solid skincare treatment plan. However, the jury is still out on the efficacy of topical PDRN. If you’re set on using it topically, go for salmon-derived PRDN in high concentrations. The worst-case scenario is that PDRN will help with superficial hydration, so it won’t do you any harm, but without more rigorous clinical trials, topical PDRN may not live up to the promise we’re all being sold. Do we use it? Yes. Do we use it in place of existing actives that are clinically proven to work? No. Do we expect miracles? Also no.
Stick to tried and tested skincare actives if you’re looking for real results, and maybe take the PDRN hype with a pinch of salt.
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