Geneva is buzzing once again as the biggest names in watchmaking gather for Watches & Wonders. It’s where tradition meets bold innovation, and where technical brilliance gets dressed up in jaw-dropping artistry. From boundary-pushing mechanics to dazzling high jewellery timepieces, this year’s showcase reminds us why haute horlogerie still has the power to surprise and seduce.
Here are the standout releases we can’t stop thinking about:
Rolex
Rolex definitely made headlines this year with a rare move: the debut of an all-new model—the Land-Dweller. It marks the brand’s first new line since the Sky-Dweller in 2012, and its first addition to the sport category in over a decade.
This highly-anticipated timepiece unveils Rolex’s first high-frequency movement, the Calibre 7135, featuring the new Dynapulse escapement for enhanced accuracy. Offered in 36mm and 40mm sizes, it comes in white Rolesor, Everose gold, and 950 platinum with an ice-blue honeycomb dial. Its silhouette is clean, sculptural, and totally modern, with the case and bracelet flowing together like liquid metal. The newly introduced Flat Jubilee bracelet furthers this unity, with subtle chamfers and satin finishes that catch light just the way you’d want them to.
Aside from the Land-Dweller, the GMT-Master II returns in its boldest ceramic guise yet, with a luminous green ceramic dial and bezel insert. Crafted in 18 karat white gold, it also features a left-side crown.
Pastel hues—lavender, pistachio, sandy beige—soften the Oyster Perpetual line with a playful edge, while the 1908 gets a yellow gold refresh, underscoring Rolex’s quiet evolution.
Bvlgari
Celebrating 25 years of boundary-pushing watchmaking, Bvlgari makes a bold debut at Watches & Wonders 2025 with two radically distinct statements: the razor-thin Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon and the sculptural Serpenti Aeterna.
A feat of modern micro-engineering, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is just 1.85mm thick. Crafted in microbead-blasted titanium for a sleek, matte finish, it’s powered by Bvlgari’s wafer-thin BVF 900 calibre, anchored to a tungsten carbide main plate for strength without bulk. Instead of a traditional single crown, dual planar crowns help maintain the watch’s razor-thin silhouette. Even the titanium bracelet is engineered for slimness—at only 1.5mm thick, it’s thinner than most coins.
Serpenti Aeterna, by contrast, is a study in sensual minimalism. The design coils seamlessly around the wrist with a concealed clasp, while Bvlgari’s signature hexagonal scales—a hallmark feature of past Serpenti designs—are delicately engraved along the inner contour, hidden from view but rich in detail. Available in two versions—rose gold with diamonds or a fully pavé-set white gold edition—the timepieces feature a snow-set dial that shimmers with gemstones flowing down the serpent’s spine.
Cartier
Few maisons master the art of silhouette like Cartier. For 2025, the Cartier Privé series resurrects the avant-garde Tank à Guichets from 1928—renowned for its unorthodox time display. Now powered by the in-house Calibre 9755 MC, it features jumping hours and dragging minutes revealed through discreet apertures. The winding crown is placed unexpectedly at 12 o’clock, adding an eccentric twist to the case, which plays with contrasting polished and satin finishes. Among the variations available, one particularly striking version is a limited edition of 200 pieces that uses oblique windows instead of straight ones—a design that enhances the watch’s Art Deco aesthetic, referencing the geometric, bold style popular in the 1920s.
Meanwhile, the Tank Louis Cartier—a 1922 classic—returns with a larger case size and a new in-house 1899 MC automatic movement. Available in rose or yellow gold, its softened lines breathe new life into a legend of timeless restraint.
On the high jewellery front, Tressage twists gold and stones into woven, architectural forms, while the Panthère jewellery watch prowls with lacquered fur and tsavorite eyes. The abstract Panthère de Cartier dial—striped in lacquer, framed in diamonds—casts the emblematic feline in a modernist light.
Chanel
“It’s not black, it’s not white, it’s bleu.” With this tagline, Chanel unveiled a bold new hue at Watches & Wonder 2025 to celebrate the J12’s 25th anniversary. The commemorative collection debuts in a matte blue edition, crafted from high-resistance Bleu ceramic—an ode to the maison’s ongoing pursuit of material innovation.
Spanning nine limited-edition models in sizes from 28 to 42 mm, the collection culminates in the showstopping J12 Diamond Bleu Tourbillon. Most pieces are powered by automatic movements, with three exceptions: the petite 28 mm J12 Bleu features a high-precision quartz movement, while the Diamond Bleu Tourbillon and J12 Bleu X-RAY are driven by manual-winding calibers.
Then there’s the Blush capsule collection, a vibrant tribute to colour and craftsmanship inspired by Chanel Beauty. Spanning 15 pieces, the collection reimagines some of the maison’s most iconic lines, including the J12, Boy·Friend, and Code Coco.
Highlights include the flirty Boy·Friend Blush timepiece featuring a Mademoiselle motif, the powder-pink Code Coco Blush, and the dazzling J12 “Dripping Art”—limited to just five pieces—with bezels and dials that mimic nail polish suspended mid-drip. For a touch of whimsy, the Première Charms Blush watch is adorned with blush-hued charms that spell out “Chanel”.
Meanwhile, the Première Galon features a twisted bangle bracelet nodding to the braid that edges Chanel jackets. For Gabrielle Chanel’s fellow Leos, the Lion collection roars with sculptural timepieces in gold, gemstones, and mother-of-pearl—astrological elegance in full power mode.
Piaget
Piaget plunges into its archives, resurrecting vintage magic with modern flair.
The new Sixtie—a trapezoidal watch inspired by the radicalism of the ’60s and ’70s—channels the maison’s most audacious design era. Softly geometric and confidently feminine, it radiates retro-cool allure.
The watch launches in four versions: pink gold; pink gold with 51 diamonds on the bezel; a two-tone pink gold and steel model with matching bracelet; and a full steel version, also diamond-set. For the diamond-free models, the bezel is adorned with finely chiselled gadroons—a familiar distinctive design aesthetic shared with the maison’s famous Andy Warhol watch.
Speaking of the watch that was once known as the 15102 and favoured by Andy Warhol himself, the Andy Warhol Watch is reborn in bold iterations—from a lightning-blue opal dial surrounded by sapphires to a warm tiger’s eye version. With 10 stone dial options, various hands, and strap choices, it’s endlessly customisable.
Other novelties presented include the vivid Rainbow Aura, a white gold revival of the Piaget Polo 79, and the kinetic Swinging Sautoir watches (one of which was spotted on Korean actress and newly appointed global ambassador Jun Ji-hyun at the Piaget booth during the fair).
Van Cleef & Arpels
Ever the dreamweaver, Van Cleef & Arpels returns to Watches & Wonders with a lyrical suite of creations that reimagine time as a canvas for storytelling.
At the heart of this year’s presentation is the Lady Arpels Bals des Amoureux Automate, a mechanical love story staged beneath the lights of a 19th-century Parisian guinguette. At noon and midnight—or on command with the push of a button—the lovers lean in for a kiss, animated by a newly developed in-house movement four years in the making. More nuanced than ever, the scene unfolds with articulated hands, wandering stars in retrograde motion, and a dial rich in detail—layered with grisaille enamel and sculpted gold cobblestones.
The maison also unveils new Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux editions, each capturing a different moment in the day—dawn, morning, dusk, and moonlight. Each dial is a miniature painting brought to life with layered enamel work and sculpted gold bridges. As ever, lovers meet on the bridge at noon and midnight, or at the wearer’s whim with the on-demand animation.
For the Precious Moments collection, the Cadenas watch returns in celebration of its 90th anniversary. Originally designed in 1935, the new iteration glows in yellow gold with snow-set diamonds and princess-cut sapphires—a refined nod to its Art Deco roots as the timepiece. The Ruban Mysterieux, meanwhile, wraps the wrist in Mystery Set sapphires and emeralds, crowned by an oval-cut DIF diamond.
In Extraordinary Objects, Van Cleef & Arpels expands its celestial storytelling. The monumental Planetarium Automaton returns with new flair, encased under a custom glass dome where planets orbit at their true speeds around a trembling, gemstone-adorned sun. Meanwhile, Naissance de l’Amour captures Cupid in mid-flight. Sculpted in precious metals and adorned with diamonds and enamel, the 30cm automaton rises gracefully from a feathered cradle of lacquer and petrified palmwood. A carillon melody plays as wings shimmer and time is marked by diamond-feathered arrows—an ode to the moment love first stirs.
Hermès
Hermès brings the same poetic precision to watchmaking as it does to its silk, leather, and couture.
The iconic Arceau Le temps suspendu returns, redesigned in a sleek 42mm openworked case that reveals the magic behind its “Time Suspended” complication. With the press of a button, hours and minutes disappear into a graceful “V” at 12 o’clock—inviting wearers to linger in the moment. Powered by the Hermès H1837 calibre and offered in rose or white gold, it’s available in three rich dial hues: sunburst blue, brun désert, and rouge sellier.
The same complication also finds itself in the Hermès Cut, introduced just last year in 2024. Defined by its sculptural silhouette, the 39mm rose gold case houses the H1912 movement—now with a counterclockwise-running indicator that adds a playful twist to time’s reversals.
Hermès also looks to the stars with three new Arceau L’heure de la lune models, each limited to 12 pieces and featuring dials made from lunar rock, asteroid Vesta, or the rare Erg Chech meteorite. More understated but no less celestial, the Arceau Petite lune brings lunar elegance in a 38mm diamond-set steel case with a deep blue gradient dial and moon phase display. It’s paired with the H1837 movement and an abyss blue alligator strap.
And rounding out the lineup: the Maillon libre collection reinterprets the maison’s emblematic Chaîne d’ancre link as sculptural timepieces—as a wristwatch and brooch watch—featuring tourmaline or diamond centre stones and transformable designs.
Patek Phillipe
At Watches and Wonders 2025, the Geneva watchmaker has once again raised the bar with a sweeping presentation of 15 new timepieces.
Originally introduced as a platinum limited edition during the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo 2023, the Quadruple Complication now enters Patek Philippe’s main collection. Encased in 42mm white gold, the Ref. 5308G-001 combines a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, enhanced by patented innovations for smoother chronograph function. Its sunburst ice-blue dial and navy strap exude frosty sophistication.
First introduced in 2024 as a bold 45mm statement, the Cubitus now arrives in a sleeker 40mm format, available in white gold with a blue-grey dial (Ref. 7128/1G-001) and rose gold with a warm brown dial (Ref. 7128/1R-001), both powered by the calibre 26-330 S C.
Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 collection, long beloved for its elegance and feminine allure, receives its first complication in 2025—a perpetual calendar. Housed in a 36mm rose gold case, this refined timepiece is powered by the ultra-thin calibre 240 Q with micro-rotor. Notably, this is the first round Twenty~4 model without gem-setting, offered in two sophisticated finishes: Ref. 7340/1R-001 with a vertically and horizontally brushed silvered dial, and Ref. 7340/1R-010 with an olive-green sunburst dial.
The minimalist Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 charms with a platinum case and rose-gilt opaline dial that evokes vintage flair, while the new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G-001 delivers dazzling opulence. Set with a staggering 1,285 brilliant-cut and 195 baguette-cut diamonds, this timepiece elevates the iconic Nautilus silhouette into a jewel of architectural harmony.
Also joining the ladies’ Nautilus line-up is the refined Ref. 7010/1G-013, a quartz-powered model driven by the calibre E23-250 S C. Its azure-blue lacquered dial features a signature wave pattern, central seconds, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. The bezel is set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, adding just the right sparkle to its sporty-luxe appeal. A matching blue strap in composite material completes the look.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre doubles down on its crown jewel, the Reverso, through a series of compelling novelties.
The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater, limited to 30 pieces, houses the new Calibre 953 and features dual faces: a front adorned with guilloché barley grain beneath lustrous teal-blue enamel, and a reverse revealing a dramatic openworked dial. Inside, crystal gongs, innovative trébuchet hammers, and a silence-eliminating mechanism work in harmony. All of this is housed in a refined pink gold case just 12.6mm thick—making it not just technically impressive, but also beautifully wearable.
Powered by the new Calibre 834, the Reverso Tribute Geographic is the first world-time function in the Tribute series. The static city ring remains still while the 24-hour ring rotates, delivering global time at a glance, set against a richly lacquered world map.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Shahnameh’ features four masterpieces that pay tribute to the Shahnameh—the Persian Book of Kings—and the origin myth of polo itself. Each caseback is a miniature canvas, painstakingly enamelled with scenes from the 16th-century manuscript using both grand feu enamel and paillonnage techniques.
With a similar commitment to detail, the Reverso One line continues to bloom. Two pink gold Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’—Green Arums and Purple Arums—radiate floral femininity, while the Reverso One ‘Precious Colours’ transforms its case into a full enamelled Art Deco canvas, demanding up to 15 firings and years of enamel artistry.
A. Lange & Söhne
At Watches and Wonders 2025, A. Lange & Söhne honours both past and present with a trio of standout novelties.
Marrying two grand complications in one platinum case, the Minute Repeater Perpetual is a 50-piece masterclass in German watchmaking. Its black enamel dial displays the perpetual calendar and moonphase, while the updated chiming mechanism includes safety features such as preventing activation while the crown is pulled and vice versa.
Meanwhile, the Odysseus, first introduced in 2019, is now available in its most opulent incarnation yet: the first Odysseus in full 18K Honeygold, from case to bracelet to clasp. Limited to just 100 pieces, this new reference captures everything collectors love about Lange’s sportiest watch — precision, poise, and presence — while elevating it with the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Honeygold’s uniquely warm tone lands somewhere between yellow and pink gold, offering a soft, almost sandy sheen that plays beautifully against a rich brown dial and luminous markers. Powered by the L155.1 Datomatic movement with a 950 platinum rotor, it’s an opulent evolution of the Odysseus
To mark 30 years of the 1815 collection, the watchmaker has gone back to its roots. The new releases arrive in white and pink gold, sized at 34mm with a slender 6.4mm profile, making them perfect for those who miss the golden age of dress watches. Beneath their modest dimensions lies the new manual-winding L152.1 calibre with a 72-hour power reserve. The highlight? A pair of gorgeously lacquered blue dials, minimal in design yet radiating depth and elegance. It’s a subtle twist on the 1815’s classic formula: Arabic numerals, railway minute track, and small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Tag Heuer
Tag Heuer makes a turbocharged appearance at Geneva to mark their return as official timekeeper of Formula 1, bringing adrenaline, innovation, and nostalgia.
At just 38mm, the new Formula 1 Date Solargraph channels the same youthful, playful spirit that made the original such a cult icon. But this time, it’s powered by sunlight (or any light at all, technically). The Solargraph TH50-00 movement, developed in-house, does away with battery changes in favor of solar-charged sustainability. Its translucent dial cleverly hides solar cells underneath, ensuring the watch looks every bit as sporty as expected.
A haute horlogerie hero, the Monaco Split-Seconds F1 gets a dramatic redesign in white ceramic with F1-inspired flourishes—from asphalt-textured chronograph counters to a red-tinted sapphire plate and typography inspired by F1 signage.
The Carrera Day-Date and Carrera Date Twin-Time models signal the brand’s commitment to timeless design and practicality. The 41mm Day-Date comes in five new references, including bi-color and smoky red dial versions. Meanwhile, the Carrera Twin-Time brings GMT function into the fold with a radiant teal dial and two-tone chapter ring. Its red-tipped GMT hand and reworked dial architecture offer improved legibility and depth. All models run on the Calibre TH31-02 or TH31-03—both offering 80-hour power reserves and a five-year warranty.
The new Carrera models pay tribute to one of the most elegant design flourishes of its past: the beads-of-rice bracelet. Reintroduced for 2025 in a sleeker, more ergonomic silhouette, this new iteration features alternating brushed and polished links for enhanced comfort and a refined tactile experience, paired with a fine-brushed and polished clasp with double safety pushers. Offered on a range of Carrera chronographs—black, blue, Panda, and a distinctive teal green Dato—the bracelet represents a fusion of mid-century design and contemporary engineering.
Hublot
Hublot celebrates the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary with limited-edition models that’s as much about legacy as it is about limitless ambition. The new 20th Anniversary Collection revisits the original’s bold design (rubber-tipped pushers, red accents, and a carbon-pattern dial) with modern Unico features, including the Unico automatic flyback chronograph and topped with a commemorative gold roto.
The Master of Sapphire anniversary set features five versions of the Big Bang MECA-10. Each case is paired with a matching translucent strap and coloured movement accents, making this not just a celebration of colour—but a masterclass in chemical engineering.
Meanwhile, the Materials & High Complications set includes five exceptional timepieces, showcasing Hublot’s innovation in materials and movements, such as the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Sapphire and the Big Bang Cathedral Minute Repeater.
For those who want their hues without the high complications, Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire gives fans an aquatic dreamscape in a classic chronograph package. The Unico movement—column-wheel clutch, 72-hour reserve—is as reliable as it is beautiful beneath that crystalline case.
Hublot also debuts two new ceramic colours, Petrol Blue and Mint Green, debuting in 42mm Unico and 33mm One Click sizes. The One Click 33mm is in ceramic for the first time, with diamond bezels for just the right amount of flash.
Finally, the Big Bang One Click Joyful 33mm collection introduces models with coloured gemstones and matching rubber straps, offering a feminine twist and interchangeable straps powered by the HUB1120 movement with a 40-hour reserve.
Montblanc
Montblanc’s Iced Sea collection introduces a striking 38mm case, offering a sleek unisex profile while retaining its rugged, sub-zero spirit. The glacier-patterned dials—offered in crisp white or cool blue—are crafted using the gratté-boisé technique, giving each piece a shimmering, layered texture reminiscent of frozen lakes. These are framed by either white ceramic or anodized aluminum bezels, and powered by the MB 24.17 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Like their larger counterparts, these dive-ready models come equipped with Montblanc’s signature 0 Oxygen technology to prevent fogging and oxidation, ensuring performance from the depths to the peaks. On the reverse? An engraved tableau of scuba divers and icebergs seals the story.
For a larger presence, the Iced Sea Automatic Date in 41mm now has a twist—its black ceramic bezel, finished using a two-step laser texturing process, is designed to develop a unique patina over time. Meanwhile, the 1858 Automatic Date 0 Oxygen in a new bronze-and-brown iteration channels a vintage explorer’s aesthetic, complete with a sfumato dial and luminous rose gold hands.
Montblanc has also expanded its high-complication offerings with the 1858 Annual Calendar Geosphere Limited Editions in 42mm, now boasting new in-house Minerva movements with a robust 65-hour power reserve. These watches combine an annual calendar with a world-timer function and rotating hand-painted globes.
Closing the show are two chronographs for connoisseurs: the 1858 Split Second Chronograph stuns with a bold burgundy dial offset by stark black counters—a vivid, high-contrast take on a traditionally serious complication; while the 1858 Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph flips the script (quite literally) by showcasing its flipped-over movement through the dial side, offering a visceral look into the beating heart of Minerva mastery.
IWC Schaffhausen
This year, IWC Schaffhausen confidently reasserts its technical prowess with a sleek, purposeful update to its Ingenieur and Pilot’s collections.
The Ingenieur Automatic 42 debuts in full black ceramic—a first for the Genta-designed icon—its sculpted case playing with sandblasted, satin, and polished textures. Beneath the smoky sapphire case back beats the in-house 82110 calibre, featuring ceramic components.
Further refining the family, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 marries Genta’s industrial chic with Kurt Klaus’ ingenious calendar mechanics. Stainless steel meets celestial complication on a grid-patterned blue dial, with the 82600 calibre visible through sapphire.
In the Pilot’s line, IWC flexes technical muscle. Going full throttle, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Perpetual Calendar wows with a digital date-month display, 474-part movement, and dark-hammered dial, all wrapped in Ceratanium, the special titanium alloy that is made specifically for IWC. The Big Pilot’s Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL introduces the SPRIN-g PROTECT system, cradling a flying tourbillon in a skeletonised Ceratanium case.And in a cinematic twist, IWC introduces timepieces tied to F1 the movie—including a green-dial Ingenieur Automatic 40 worn by lead character Sonny Hayes (played by Brad Pitt), plus three racing-inspired chronographs channeling the colours of fictional team APXGP.
Zenith
For its 160th anniversary, Zenith resurrects the revered Calibre 135 with the G.F.J., limited to just 160 pieces. First created in the 1950s, the movement returns in a COSC-certified, 72-hour power reserve form.Its signature precision is matched by quietly luxurious design codes: a 39mm platinum case, deep Lapis Lazuli dial, mother-of-pearl subdial, and a guilloché “brick” motif—a nod to the original manufacture’s historic façade. Beneath the surface beats the re-engineered Calibre 135 with a 72-hour power reserve—proof that memory, when paired with innovation, becomes mastery.
Blue has long been more than a colour for Zenith—it’s a nod to the celestial ambitions of its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Now, to honour 160 years of reaching ever upward, the brand unveils a trilogy of ceramic-clad chronographs, each wrapped in a specially developed deep blue ceramic and issued in 160-piece editions.
The Pilot Big Date Flyback features a 42.5mm micro-blasted ceramic case and corrugated dial with oversized luminescent numerals. Powered by the El Primero 3652 calibre, it boasts a patented big date mechanism and flyback chronograph—ideal for timing flights or high-speed days. On the back: a custom rotor celebrating Zenith’s 160-year flightpath.
Architecturally sharp and relentlessly precise, the Defy Skyline Chronograph takes on its boldest form yet in full-body blue ceramic. Its engraved four-pointed star dial and integrated bracelet house the El Primero 3600, capable of 1/10th-second accuracy. The timepiece also features a chronograph that measures time at its most fleeting—with a hand that completes a sweep every ten seconds.
The Chronomaster Sport pairs a polished ceramic case with a lacquered dial and iconic tricolour counters. Inside ticks the El Primero 3600 calibre, offering 1/10th-second precision in a silhouette that’s both sporty and refined.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier is adding the Classic Auto to its permanent collection — and it’s arriving in icy blue. First introduced as a limited Série Atelier for Geneva Watch Days 2024, the new Classic Auto Horizon trades the Sandstone’s copper dial for a lacquered sky-blue gradient, inspired by open skies and shifting light.
Its name nods to the LF 270.01 caliber, a micro-rotor movement originally seen in the Sport Auto. Now housed in a 40mm Galet-shaped stainless steel case, the Classic Auto bridges Ferrier’s sportier edge with his signature vintage refinement. The softly contoured case draws from 19th-century pocket watches, made modern.
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