As we near the arrival of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, the House’s esteemed studio team put forward a Spring/Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection that evinced founder Gabrielle Chanel’s enduring vision. Hosted at its rightful home in the Grand Palais of Paris, the show unfolded under the venue’s iconic dome roof, with models pacing an inverted double ‘C’ runway that mimicked an infinity symbol—a poetic reminder of Chanel’s unshakable spirit amid change.
Designed by scenographer Willo Perron, the space was bathed in a spectrum of hues that reflected the collection’s chromatic journey. An original score by composer Gustave Rudman heightened the experience, seamlessly complementing the dreamlike atmosphere.
Tracing the cycle of a day, each look spanned from the soft hues of dawn to the inky depths of night. The runway opened with a pyjama-style ensemble in pale silk crêpe, the progression crescendoing into a symphony of colour: a sunshine yellow tweed suit, a lilac tweed dress with box pleats, and a dramatic orange-pink coat paired with a purple jacquard dress. The final act introduced the wonder of the night sky, using deep midnight blues and shimmering whites to reflect the spectacle of twinkling stars.
True to Chanel’s DNA, tweeds were reimagined with painterly strokes and embroidered flourishes. Linings in unexpected pops of bronze, royal blue, and green satin peeked through separates while graphic braids and buttons adorned with rhinestones, rock crystal, and metal were rendered as moons, suns, and camellias. These celestial touches extended to accessories, with velvet belts and strappy shoes in a kaleidoscope of tones.
Silhouettes balanced Chanel’s signatures with playful modernity. Dresses alternated between long and short, crafted from diaphanous fabrics that showcased the atelier’s technical prowess. A stardust-embroidered dress, a voluminous periwinkle-blue cape, and a sequinned white gown worn with a champagne tweed coat were standout moments, bringing a sense of ethereal beauty.
With this collection marking 110 years of Haute Couture, the show served as a whimsical testament to Chanel’s timeless philosophy: “Comfort has forms. Love has colours.” As the world braces for a new chapter in this in-between period, Spring/Summer 2025 demonstrates an enduring commitment to beauty, craft and boundless creativity that has always been the North Star of the House.
This article first appeared on GRAZIA International.
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