On his Instagram page, Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini has shared a few telling photos. There is one of Kim Basinger and Alec Baldwin, both wearing long black coats, taken in 1994. There is one of Princess Diana in a hurry somewhere in London, sporting one of her more casual ensembles: an oversized Harvard sweatshirt and bike shorts. There’s also a black-and-white photograph of a turtleneck-clad Romy Schneider, whose gaze is impenetrable behind her dark sunglasses. Like a moodboard, Tamburini’s Instagram page reflects his tastes. We can tell that the Italian designer is drawn to an assured sense of elegance, one that doesn’t require an occasion or an audience. Simply being out and about— in the city, at an airport—is enough reason to be well-dressed, which in Tamburini’s case calls for a slightly oversized coat, a high-neck top, and a smart pair of pants.
Such pieces appeared in Tamburini’s first Tod’s collection, for Fall/Winter 2024. His debut fashion show was presented at Milan’s historic Darsena tram depot, a setting that, to Tamburini, represents the energy of the Italian city. The models at the show, who walked along the rail tracks, bring to life the stylish strangers that you would encounter in such a city, the ones whose outfits you spend the whole day thinking about.
The first models arrived in striped button-up shirts that were tucked into long, straight trousers. Breaking up the monotony of corporate dressing, those shirts came with double collars, while the trousers were worn with their ends folded up, adding a slouch to their silhouette. Some models wore cashmere sweater vests over poplin shirts, but without their shirt collars peeking out—a simple styling trick that refreshes the preppy look that has saturated fashion in the past year. Another twist was seen in a silk-blend cardigan, which actually comprises two cardigans stitched together along their bottom hems, creating a layered look.
Layering, after all, is essential in classic menswear, which is what Tamburini’s collection draws heavily on. He played to his strengths: before joining Tod’s, he was the head designer at Bottega Veneta, where he specialised in outerwear, leather, and tailoring. For Tod’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Tamburini created women’s suits with collarless jackets and cigarette trousers in wool twill. Those collarless jackets make layering effortless. You need only throw on any of the collection’s standout leather trench coats, and you have an outfit that doesn’t just keep you warm, but makes you look as sophisticated as the subjects of Tamburini’s moodboard.
Appearances aside, the collection is made for all your comings and goings. Movement is emphasised, especially in the swish of the fringe on the leather dresses. Tamburini has also introduced an array of practical shoes for getting around the city. He made the loafer contemporary by adding a metal band on the front and giving it a gathered toe achieved by Tod’s supple leathers. Tod’s Gommino driving shoes, marked by their pebble-like outsoles, can now go from day to night: Tamburini updated the casual slip-ons with exotic leathers. The knee-high boots in the collection, made with brushed leather, are among the most elegant pairs you will find this season. And if you want a conversation starter, try the fun, fringed Yorky Gommino shoes.
Of course, for the city dweller, no outfit is complete without the right bag. Tamburini offers a solution in the form of the new Di Bag Swing. Toted on the runway by Irina Shayk, the versatile bag is designed to look great from every angle, thanks to the zipper all around its opening. When left unzipped, the bag takes on the shape of a shopper tote, which is wider at its opening than at its base. When zipped, it takes on a slouchy, square silhouette, and can be carried by its long shoulder strap instead of the top handles. Tod’s Di Bag Swing comes in two generous sizes, and in neutral colours like brown and grey.
Tamburini’s debut comes at the perfect timing. After seasons of streetwear, athleisure and other casual clothing dominating the runway, fashion is once again embracing a refined look—evident in the quiet luxury trend that emerged last year, and the recent return of preppy fashion, which takes cues from uniforms. This can all be daunting for those of us who have been ignoring the technical aspects of clothing, like proportions and fabrics, and instead relying on the one-size-fits-all formula of T-shirts and baggy jeans. With Tod’s Fall/ Winter 2024 collection, however, Tamburini simplifies the art of dressing well. He offers us a wardrobe of basics that are distinguished by considered and intriguing details. And wearing those pieces is as simple as throwing on a T-shirt—but they promise much more polished results.
Shop the Tod’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, now in stores and on tods.com
PHOTOGRAPHY JAYA KHIDIR
STYLING KELLY HSU
HAIR AND MAKEUP NIKKI FU USING DIOR BEAUTY
MODEL WIKTORIA DARDA/AVE MANAGEMENT
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS NOWO KASTURI AND SYED ABDULLAH
This story originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of GRAZIA Singapore.
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