MFW: Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 Collection Was On Pointe

But in classic Ferragamo fashion, footwear took centre stage

ferragamo-ss25 — MILAN, ITALY – SEPTEMBER 21: A model walks the runway at the Ferragamo fashion show during the Milan Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 on September 21, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

For his Spring/Summer 2025 outing, Ferragamo’s creative director Maximilian Davis paid homage to the Maison’s history with ballet. His moodboard featured a 1950s photograph of Salvatore Ferragamo and dancer and anthropologist Katherine Dunham. Elsewhere, ballet dancer and choreographer Rudolf Nureyev was pictured wearing custom-made Ferragamo ballerina shoes on a stage in the 1980s. As such, Davis’ runway began with models embodying that ‘off-duty dancer’ vibe—read: leotards, wrap-around cardigans, ballet pink tights—all with graphic sandals laced up to the calf with matte silk ribbons. Most carried a new, large supple handbag, gently collapsing in on itself.

“I’ve always incorporated different historic eras in my work—eras which feel relatable to me and my heritage,” says Davis. “At Ferragamo, I’ve sought out similarities—and the beauty of this brand is that that there are so many different stories you can relate to. Every shoe has a meaning behind it. Every shoe has a story.”

There were angular pumps, fringed jacquard mules and geometric booties. Even so, between the fabulous footwear and the layers, twists and ties of the on-the-go ballerina aesthetic, ballooning silhouettes championed a dancer’s freedom of movement: pea coats and parachute dresses rendered in silk nylons, suede and organza. Standout evening dresses with avant-garde twists were fit for a night at the ballet. And trench coats, oddly belted at the mid-thigh, made an impression as did the rare pieces with sequinned embroidery, gentle nods to Dunham’s mid-century glamour.

The collection also imbued the energy of the Caribbean—Davis was born in Manchester, England, to Trinidadian and Jamaican parents—as frayed, stonewashed denim hit the runway alongside organic forms and rubber jelly moccasins.

While it’s definitely not the first show to be inspired by ballet (remember Chanel’s Spring/Summer haute couture 2024 show and Dior’s Spring/Summer 2019 show?), Ferragamo’s footwear will always make our collective hearts sing.

See the highlights from Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 show now.