In the grand halls of Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera, Sportmax presented a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that served as a masterclass in intuitive restraint. Continuing its legacy of versatility, creative director Grazia Malagoli put forward a stripped-back celebration of creativity, marked by the house’s signature refinement and minimalist palette.
Against the backdrop of the neo-classical courtyard, monochromatic ensembles were punctuated by an eroded palette of aquamarine, sand, citrine, and ruby. Silhouettes that wrapped instinctively around the body embraced a fluid yet sculptural aesthetic that balanced artistic and functional needs. At the same time, asymmetric details and contrasting layering infused the collection with an optical dynamism, all while highlighting the expertise behind every piece. After all, quality has always been at the forefront of what Malagoli has strived for during her tenure at the brand.
Accessories played a vital role this season, with prismatic crystal embellishments adding sparkle to elongated cuffs and hems, enabling garments to sweep gracefully as they move. Making its debut was the Soffy bag—a pillow-like purse with twisting ‘S’ hardware. With its plush, buttery leather and structured, folded shape, the bag marries modern practicality with a tactile sense of luxury.
Via dresses, tops, coordinating sets and outerwear, lightweight, malleable fabrics were highlighted throughout the collection, punctuated by more robust materials like leather gowns, opaque shift coveralls, and denim separates. Daring slits, crystal beading and bold sheer looks emphasised a fierce femininity that could easily be mixed and matched with one’s everyday wardrobe.
Though she’s not one to serve as a “face” the way other creative directors might do, Malagoli’s four-decade stint at Sportmax has seen the Italian fashion house thrive for its ability to innovate and push the boundaries of fashion while never losing sight of what its customers constitute as wearable clothing. Even as its younger following grows up, the brand transforms to reflect this autonomy and individuality with pieces that don’t define a wearer but rather enable them to be reimagined.
This article originally appeared on GRAZIA International.
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