From now until 2 Sep, Geneva Watch Days 2023 is taking place in the Swiss city, bringing together close to 40 brands to present their latest and greatest. Here we introduce the creations by five brands that have collectively unveiled watches that range from ornate to understated.
Bulgari
The Serpenti Misteriosi in white gold and rose gold with black lacquer, powered by the diminutive but mighty Piccolissimo BVL 100 round miniature mechanical movement, are a brilliant expression of the Bulgari house emblem and the gem-setting expertise of the brand’s master artisans.
Following materials such as steel, titanium and ceramic, the Octo Finissimo family gets even more adventurous with the new CarbonGold watches, one a time-only model and the other a perpetual calendar, both sporting a hypnotic combination of matt black smoothness and gold specks. Mirroring its jewellery counterparts, the Monete Catene and Monete Catene Dual Time both are set with antique Roman coins, bringing an awe-inspiring sense of history to these references.
Ulysse Nardin
Containing references to the brand’s iconic Freak collection, the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry features the UN-176 caliber, and a dazzling dial marquetry in blue silicon, the material that appeared on the Freak in 2001. A flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, barrel and power reserve hover ethereally above.
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MB&F
Horological Machine N°9 Sapphire Vision is a vision indeed, a sophisticated creation that challenges the idea of what a watch “should” look like. The striking movement is housed entirely within an aerodynamically shaped sapphire crystal casing. Two independent cantilevered balances, conical gears that transmit energy through the gear train at 90-degree angles, and twin spinning turbines are just some of the marvels waiting to be discovered in these references.
Girard-Perregaux
The uniform dark grey belies the complexity of the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, specifically the octagonal case. It’s composed of carbon fibres and lightweight titanium powder that together form 0.05mm layers, which are stacked together then cut into octagonal pieces.
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Urwerk
The UR-100V Stardust accentuates its wandering hour movement with 400 diamonds snow-set into its stainless steel case, in an organic manner to mirror the irregularity of stars and constellations. Less malleable than gold, steel makes for a more challenging surface to set gemstones on, making this reference a beautiful combination of artistic prowess and technical complexity.